Steering Wheel Stitching (Reconstructed Thread)
#3
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#5
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this is great!!! i was just about to buy the GT500 steering wheel haha. i liked it due to the red stitching and the bars are black. Now i can prob do it all myself and have the bars painted.
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this is great!!! i was just about to buy the GT500 steering wheel haha. i liked it due to the red stitching and the bars are black. Now i can prob do it all myself and have the bars painted.
#9
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Those look phenomenal! About how long did it take? Also, I see you take the plastic trim off, how do you start and finish the threading, knot it on itself or tie it to something so it doesn't move? Are there any steps that aren't intuitive?
Thanks for resurrecting this thread, I never saw the old one!
Thanks for resurrecting this thread, I never saw the old one!
#10
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It took me roughly an hour and a half or two hours... Patience is virtue here! I stitched it just like the original was stictched. Study the original stitching well before you remove it. Starting from the left side of any wheel spoke, you thread right to left. You thread like starting lace of a new pair of shoes. On the first stitch you just cross the two threaded needles over to each other then you start the criss-cross, always threading from under the split in the wrap and pulling it out from the top taught. Yeah it was necessary to pull the wheel trim off. It just snaps off and snaps back on, no drama. It is necessary to remove the trim to get close as possible to the spokes for a finished look like OEM. It's probably the most satisfying virtually free mod I have done!
I have seen the contrasting stitch on the 2010 wheels and this looks identically as good to me! All I did was do the same thing the assembly line worker did with the hand stiching.
I cannot wait to do the same type stitching and leather wrap on the 1984 Tbird I am restoring!
BTW I cannot believe this never became a sticky!
I have seen the contrasting stitch on the 2010 wheels and this looks identically as good to me! All I did was do the same thing the assembly line worker did with the hand stiching.
I cannot wait to do the same type stitching and leather wrap on the 1984 Tbird I am restoring!
BTW I cannot believe this never became a sticky!
Last edited by watchdevil; 9/26/09 at 12:13 AM.
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It took me roughly an hour and a half or two hours... Patience is virtue here! I stitched it just like the original was stictched. Study the original stitching well before you remove it. Starting from the left side of any wheel spoke, you thread right to left. You thread like starting lace of a new pair of shoes. On the first stitch you just cross the two threaded needles over to each other then you start the criss-cross, always threading from under the split in the wrap and pulling it out from the top taught. Yeah it was necessary to pull the wheel trim off. It just snaps off and snaps back on, no drama. It is necessary to remove the trim to get close as possible to the spokes for a finished look like OEM. It's probably the most satisfying virtually free mod I have done!
I have seen the contrasting stitch on the 2010 wheels and this looks identically as good to me! All I did was do the same thing the assembly line worker did with the hand stiching.
I cannot wait to do the same type stitching and leather wrap on the 1984 Tbird I am restoring!
BTW I cannot believe this never became a sticky!
I have seen the contrasting stitch on the 2010 wheels and this looks identically as good to me! All I did was do the same thing the assembly line worker did with the hand stiching.
I cannot wait to do the same type stitching and leather wrap on the 1984 Tbird I am restoring!
BTW I cannot believe this never became a sticky!
Thanks for the tips!! Definitely going to do this soon.
#15
Shelby GT350 Member
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By the way you can easily do your shift boot to match. I redid the stitching in my custom ebrake boot Jim made for me.
Last edited by watchdevil; 10/2/09 at 06:57 PM.
#17
Shelby GT350 Member
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You can use any thread size you wish, and even double it up it if is smaller than original. I would use a thread size at least identical to what you pulled out.
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