Best version of Watt's link?
#1
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Best version of Watt's link?
Title says it all. What's the best version of the Watt's link and why is it the best?
People who have a setup, can you give us feedback?
Please don't drop a name and run, back up your reasoning so we can all understand the pros and cons to all the versions out there -- and maybe understand why some cost twice as much as others.
People who have a setup, can you give us feedback?
Please don't drop a name and run, back up your reasoning so we can all understand the pros and cons to all the versions out there -- and maybe understand why some cost twice as much as others.
#2
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im not sure which is best, but best bang for the buck is the fays watts linkage. might also be the best setup from what i hear.i cant back it up cause i dont know for sure. i plan on getting one in the future, plus are you still able to adjust the rear with a watts linkage like an adjustable panhard bar does?
#3
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Can't compare what I don't have, but i'm happy with my Techco unit. It was fairly expensive but the design was alittle better than the Saleen Watt's link and I liked the fact that it worked off the rear cover instead of clamping to the axle. Since Techco has appeared to have gone out of business there might be some better deals on the unit. I'm not worried about replacement parts because I don't see much that would fail. I bought mine from Stage3 Motorsports but I think it was shipped from Techco since I live in California.
#4
I don't do trannies
or rear-ends anymore!
or rear-ends anymore!
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im not sure which is best, but best bang for the buck is the fays watts linkage. might also be the best setup from what i hear.i cant back it up cause i dont know for sure. i plan on getting one in the future, plus are you still able to adjust the rear with a watts linkage like an adjustable panhard bar does?
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I have read nothing but good things about the Fays2 and that is what will be going on my car down the road. As for the best if money were no object, then go Griggs
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Thanks for the input people -- there's a lot of us out here who don't have any first hand experience with these and are mystified or can only take edumahcated guesses on it all. Hopefully this thread will be able to help people.
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#9
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Griggs is the most expensive of the 3. It allows a level of adjustment that unless you are a HARDCORE racer, I don't know that you'll get all that much benefit from it.
For the money, I got the FAYS2.
For the money, I got the FAYS2.
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Thanks!
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The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)
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The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)
so is it worth it on a street car with occasional track time?
#15
I want a watt's link too! What about NHV for a street car that will not see the track?
Here are some links that I found helpful.
http://www.fays2.net/
http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2043
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...howtopic=25844
Here are some links that I found helpful.
http://www.fays2.net/
http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2043
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...howtopic=25844
#16
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I sell both Steeda and Fays2. I will not bother with the rest because I don't want the damned thing mounted to the diff cover, and why wouldn't you want the ability to move your roll center height? You can do a lot of tuning by moving the RC up and down which many don't give you.
Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.
I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.
Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.
I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.
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I sell both Steeda and Fays2. I will not bother with the rest because I don't want the damned thing mounted to the diff cover, and why wouldn't you want the ability to move your roll center height? You can do a lot of tuning by moving the RC up and down which many don't give you.
Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.
I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.
Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.
I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.
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Nope. Get an adjustable PHB.
I go back to my initial statement, ask yourself: why do I need it if I don't go to the track?!!?
I go back to my initial statement, ask yourself: why do I need it if I don't go to the track?!!?
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#20
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Last I checked suspensions work on the street the same way they work on a track. The car has zero idea where it is. And in fact, considering most public roads are less smooth than most tracks, it can be argued that the difference is even bigger on a street car.
In fact I have a lot of customers who do not race, but have installed Watts in place of PHB's, and rave about the difference. I know I noticed a big difference when I went back to back on my Camaro (also a PHB car) and it had a super nice PHB on it before, and that was when I was driving it on the street, not at an autocross.
Here's the deal. IMHO never should a Watts be done before a good set of shocks. Damping is most folks issue with the car, and a big part of why it hops around. The Watts can help that, but really the Watts gives better feel, and symmetrical reaction each direction where a PHB causes the body to be pulled down or pushed up depending on which way you are turning, and also causes the body to shift more laterally when pushing the car. But those things aren't the root cause of a jumpy rear end....
I sell a lot of Watts links. NEVER has anyone be sorry they got one, but then never has anyone been sorry they got good shocks either. If you have shocks and are looking for a more solid feel, more composure from the rear of the car then a Watts is worth looking at.
In fact I have a lot of customers who do not race, but have installed Watts in place of PHB's, and rave about the difference. I know I noticed a big difference when I went back to back on my Camaro (also a PHB car) and it had a super nice PHB on it before, and that was when I was driving it on the street, not at an autocross.
Here's the deal. IMHO never should a Watts be done before a good set of shocks. Damping is most folks issue with the car, and a big part of why it hops around. The Watts can help that, but really the Watts gives better feel, and symmetrical reaction each direction where a PHB causes the body to be pulled down or pushed up depending on which way you are turning, and also causes the body to shift more laterally when pushing the car. But those things aren't the root cause of a jumpy rear end....
I sell a lot of Watts links. NEVER has anyone be sorry they got one, but then never has anyone been sorry they got good shocks either. If you have shocks and are looking for a more solid feel, more composure from the rear of the car then a Watts is worth looking at.