Best version of Watt's link?

[Dixie_Flatline]

Title says it all. What's the best version of the Watt's link and why is it the best?

People who have a setup, can you give us feedback?

Please don't drop a name and run, back up your reasoning so we can all understand the pros and cons to all the versions out there -- and maybe understand why some cost twice as much as others.

[classix_stang289]

im not sure which is best, but best bang for the buck is the fays watts linkage. might also be the best setup from what i hear.i cant back it up cause i dont know for sure. i plan on getting one in the future, plus are you still able to adjust the rear with a watts linkage like an adjustable panhard bar does?

[GRAYPNY]

Can't compare what I don't have, but i'm happy with my Techco unit. It was fairly expensive but the design was alittle better than the Saleen Watt's link and I liked the fact that it worked off the rear cover instead of clamping to the axle. Since Techco has appeared to have gone out of business there might be some better deals on the unit. I'm not worried about replacement parts because I don't see much that would fail. I bought mine from Stage3 Motorsports but I think it was shipped from Techco since I live in California.

[EagleStroker]

Originally Posted by classix_stang289

im not sure which is best, but best bang for the buck is the fays watts linkage. might also be the best setup from what i hear.i cant back it up cause i dont know for sure. i plan on getting one in the future, plus are you still able to adjust the rear with a watts linkage like an adjustable panhard bar does?

It "floats" so you don't have to adjust the rear. It's a far superior system, I plan on a Fays 2 or Steeda as I don't like hinging my whole cornering performance on my diff cover.

[Doogie]

I have read nothing but good things about the Fays2 and that is what will be going on my car down the road. As for the best if money were no object, then go Griggs

[Dixie_Flatline]

Originally Posted by Doogie

I have read nothing but good things about the Fays2 and that is what will be going on my car down the road. As for the best if money were no object, then go Griggs

The Griggs watts link isn't really that expensive -- seems midrange between the Fays and the Techco unit -- but Griggs has another piece that you can add to it called a torsion bar that puts the price tag over the Techco piece. I have no clue what a torsion bar does, but Griggs highly recommends it.

Thanks for the input people -- there's a lot of us out here who don't have any first hand experience with these and are mystified or can only take edumahcated guesses on it all. Hopefully this thread will be able to help people.

[Doogie]

Once you add in the modified T/A diff cover that is required for the Griggs Watts, it is the most expensive of the 3.

[Dixie_Flatline]

Originally Posted by Doogie

Once you add in the modified T/A diff cover that is required for the Griggs Watts, it is the most expensive of the 3.

Ah, for some reason I thought Techco Watts link was $1,200.

[rony1976]

Griggs is the most expensive of the 3. It allows a level of adjustment that unless you are a HARDCORE racer, I don't know that you'll get all that much benefit from it.

For the money, I got the FAYS2.

[Dixie_Flatline]

Originally Posted by rony1976

Griggs is the most expensive of the 3. It allows a level of adjustment that unless you are a HARDCORE racer, I don't know that you'll get all that much benefit from it.

For the money, I got the FAYS2.

Thoughts? Feedback? Is there anything you don't like about it? Is there anything that needs maintenance on it? Can you describe what you like best about it?

Thanks!

[classix_stang289]

Originally Posted by Dixie_Flatline

Thoughts? Feedback? Is there anything you don't like about it? Is there anything that needs maintenance on it? Can you describe what you like best about it?

Thanks!

i wanna know as well!

[GRAYPNY]

I paid $900 shipped for my Techco from Stage 3 Motorsports. There might be better deals now.

[rony1976]

The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)

[classix_stang289]

Originally Posted by rony1976

The first thing you have to ask yourself is: why do I need that? Griggs provides the most amount of adjustment of any of the watts links available. Do you need it? If you are competitive, as in VERY, then yes, get it. If not, FAYS2's design is similar to Steeda, it's lighter, less expensive. It's definitely less expensive than TECHO/Saleen, and I haven't heard anyone having issues with this brand (I have seen the saleen ones brake)

so is it worth it on a street car with occasional track time?

[AGBULLIT]

I want a watt's link too! What about NHV for a street car that will not see the track?

Here are some links that I found helpful.
http://www.fays2.net/
http://www.fordgt500.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2043
http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/ind...howtopic=25844

[sam strano]

I sell both Steeda and Fays2. I will not bother with the rest because I don't want the damned thing mounted to the diff cover, and why wouldn't you want the ability to move your roll center height? You can do a lot of tuning by moving the RC up and down which many don't give you.

Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.

I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.

[classix_stang289]

Originally Posted by sam strano

I sell both Steeda and Fays2. I will not bother with the rest because I don't want the damned thing mounted to the diff cover, and why wouldn't you want the ability to move your roll center height? You can do a lot of tuning by moving the RC up and down which many don't give you.

Bottom line is you can pick a link that takes care of the PHB geometry issues (they all will), or you pick a link that does that, and gives you tuning options. While the Steeda is more than a Fays2, both are generally less expensive than less adjustable options.

I generally recommend Fays2 @ $650 over Steeda @ $995 because they are both very similar. Some differences, like the Steeda is Chrome-Moly the Fays is not. The axle clamps are different, etc. But having used Fays stuff on my autox F-body along with a number of customers, and having a lot of folks using them on Mustangs too, I haven't found any reason to pony up the extra $300+ dollars.

is it worth it for someone who's car is mostly street driven, with occasional track time. Or is it for the people who spend more time at the track and not on the street? where does it come to a point where its worth it do drop $650 on this versus just getting an adjustable panhard bar? who does it benefit more?

[rony1976]

Originally Posted by classix_stang289

so is it worth it on a street car with occasional track time?

Nope. Get an adjustable PHB.

Originally Posted by AGBULLIT

I want a watt's link too! What about NHV for a street car that will not see the track?

Here are some links that I found helpful.

I go back to my initial statement, ask yourself: why do I need it if I don't go to the track?!!?

[classix_stang289]

Originally Posted by rony1976

Nope. Get an adjustable PHB.



I go back to my initial statement, ask yourself: why do I need it if I don't go to the track?!!?

i just said i will be going to the track but the car is mostly street driven. still not worth it?

[sam strano]

Last I checked suspensions work on the street the same way they work on a track. The car has zero idea where it is. And in fact, considering most public roads are less smooth than most tracks, it can be argued that the difference is even bigger on a street car.

In fact I have a lot of customers who do not race, but have installed Watts in place of PHB's, and rave about the difference. I know I noticed a big difference when I went back to back on my Camaro (also a PHB car) and it had a super nice PHB on it before, and that was when I was driving it on the street, not at an autocross.

Here's the deal. IMHO never should a Watts be done before a good set of shocks. Damping is most folks issue with the car, and a big part of why it hops around. The Watts can help that, but really the Watts gives better feel, and symmetrical reaction each direction where a PHB causes the body to be pulled down or pushed up depending on which way you are turning, and also causes the body to shift more laterally when pushing the car. But those things aren't the root cause of a jumpy rear end....

I sell a lot of Watts links. NEVER has anyone be sorry they got one, but then never has anyone been sorry they got good shocks either. If you have shocks and are looking for a more solid feel, more composure from the rear of the car then a Watts is worth looking at.