Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
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Brake upgrades for the track after reviews
OK, so now we have at least a glimpse into the performance of the brakes on track. Sounds like they were overheating which wouldn't be surprising assuming they were using the stock fluid and pads. I wonder if there's a way to verify that?
I have two piece DBA 5000s front and one piece 4000 rears that I pulled off my GT500 to put on the Boss. I put brand new rings on the fronts and the rears only have two track days on them. Both sets were cryo treated so I should be golden on rotors for this year. I also have a brand new set of DTC 70/60 pads for track days and Brembo LCF 600 to switch out the fluid right away with the rotors. The brake cooling kit will go on as soon as available from FRPP.
The one thing I haven't ordered yet is the Goodridge Steel Braided brake lines. I will probably just order them but am curious if anyone has seen anything in the reviews about the pedal responsiveness/feel from the "low compressibility" brake lines. Hate to throw away money on unnecessary parts.
I have two piece DBA 5000s front and one piece 4000 rears that I pulled off my GT500 to put on the Boss. I put brand new rings on the fronts and the rears only have two track days on them. Both sets were cryo treated so I should be golden on rotors for this year. I also have a brand new set of DTC 70/60 pads for track days and Brembo LCF 600 to switch out the fluid right away with the rotors. The brake cooling kit will go on as soon as available from FRPP.
The one thing I haven't ordered yet is the Goodridge Steel Braided brake lines. I will probably just order them but am curious if anyone has seen anything in the reviews about the pedal responsiveness/feel from the "low compressibility" brake lines. Hate to throw away money on unnecessary parts.
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cloud9: you and I have conversed about track prep in the past so I'm glad to be able to do it again.
I have not seen any comments (yet) about the factory brake lines on the Boss. My guess is that they may very well be braided stainless, but once we get the cars we can confirm.
My brake prep for the Boss will be: brake ducts (on order), new pads (probably Hawk Blacks, as I really liked them on the Cobra R, but I may go the DTC route). I will upgrade the rotors once I kill off the factory ones. Brembo makes a great slotted competition rotor (Rehagen sells them) for our cars.
Mark
I have not seen any comments (yet) about the factory brake lines on the Boss. My guess is that they may very well be braided stainless, but once we get the cars we can confirm.
My brake prep for the Boss will be: brake ducts (on order), new pads (probably Hawk Blacks, as I really liked them on the Cobra R, but I may go the DTC route). I will upgrade the rotors once I kill off the factory ones. Brembo makes a great slotted competition rotor (Rehagen sells them) for our cars.
Mark
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cloud9: you and I have conversed about track prep in the past so I'm glad to be able to do it again.
I have not seen any comments (yet) about the factory brake lines on the Boss. My guess is that they may very well be braided stainless, but once we get the cars we can confirm.
My brake prep for the Boss will be: brake ducts (on order), new pads (probably Hawk Blacks, as I really liked them on the Cobra R, but I may go the DTC route). I will upgrade the rotors once I kill off the factory ones. Brembo makes a great slotted competition rotor (Rehagen sells them) for our cars.
Mark
I have not seen any comments (yet) about the factory brake lines on the Boss. My guess is that they may very well be braided stainless, but once we get the cars we can confirm.
My brake prep for the Boss will be: brake ducts (on order), new pads (probably Hawk Blacks, as I really liked them on the Cobra R, but I may go the DTC route). I will upgrade the rotors once I kill off the factory ones. Brembo makes a great slotted competition rotor (Rehagen sells them) for our cars.
Mark
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This is probably a dumb question but will the cooling ducts help that much? Do you have to pull the rotors to install the plates?
I'm not going to track my car a lot, maybe 3 times a year, but I'll do my first track day stock so I can tell the difference after changing the fluid and adding the brake ducts. These are probably the only mods I'll make to the car outside of TracKey. Unless of course I get track fever then all bets are off.
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I'll have a Ford dealer or my local after market guy do this for me. There's a shop close to me that has Corvette Z06's and ZR1's lined up outside all the time. I'm sure they'll know what's up. What does this cost? Can you think of any reason why they didn't install DOT 4 at the factory?
This is probably a dumb question but will the cooling ducts help that much? Do you have to pull the rotors to install the plates?
I'm not going to track my car a lot, maybe 3 times a year, but I'll do my first track day stock so I can tell the difference after changing the fluid and adding the brake ducts. These are probably the only mods I'll make to the car outside of TracKey. Unless of course I get track fever then all bets are off.
This is probably a dumb question but will the cooling ducts help that much? Do you have to pull the rotors to install the plates?
I'm not going to track my car a lot, maybe 3 times a year, but I'll do my first track day stock so I can tell the difference after changing the fluid and adding the brake ducts. These are probably the only mods I'll make to the car outside of TracKey. Unless of course I get track fever then all bets are off.
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If I remember correctly you don't have to pull the rotors, but you do have to remove the brake dust shield. If this kit is like on my GT500, you remove the dust shield and bolt the cooling duct in its place. You will run a hole saw through the front lower grille where the fake fog lights show. Then you zip tie the hoses to the frame and like ArizonaGT showed, to the tie rods. You will also want to pull the dust shields off the rear rotors to help with cooling.
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upgrade the fluild...
I've tracking porsches heavily the last few years and something that really improved life for me was going to SRF fluid. the reason is that you could go a whole season (which, for me, was 10-12 track days) without bleeding the brakes. most other performance fluid were as good for a single track day, but none compared to SRF's longevity. true, it costs $80 a bottle versus $20-$30 for most of the other stuff, but not having to bleed brakes made that money back in a hurry.
I also found that PFC was making some exceptional pad compounds and have become a big fan of theirs. I used their 01 compound, which is their 'enduro' compound front and rear on my boxster with great luck.
I also found that PFC was making some exceptional pad compounds and have become a big fan of theirs. I used their 01 compound, which is their 'enduro' compound front and rear on my boxster with great luck.
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I've been doing a lot of calling about the brake ducts. All are saying the same thing:
You can put them on order, but April is when they are due to be available. I can wait that long; it'll give me time to put a 1000 miles on the Boss for its pre-track breaking in.
You can put them on order, but April is when they are due to be available. I can wait that long; it'll give me time to put a 1000 miles on the Boss for its pre-track breaking in.
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Cloud9 what do you thing about Ferrodo DS2500's front and rear with Motul RBF600? I ran this set up on my STI and NEVER had a fading problem at any HPDE at Summit Point on the big track, and for auto X after the 2nd stop they were great!! With the stock Brembo pads front and rear i made it about 3 laps before fading started to happen and then the famous STI track day mod happened...The red Brembo lettering became brown!! LOL
#12
Repeat after me: Pads & fluid. Pads & fluid. Pads & fluid.
That's it guys--not rocket science
That's it guys--not rocket science
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Obviously...LOL I was more specifically inquiring with an experienced Mustang track driver what his opinions of the Ferrodo DS2500 pads on this chassis were- Anybody have any opinions on this pad?
#15
Try the DS3000. I haven't used these but they should be more in-line with our application.
Track proven combo: Hawk DTC60 front, HT10 rear. Lots of people also run Hawk DTC70 front and DTC60 rear.
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I've also run Hawk Blacks street and track on my Cobra R, and was very happy with them.
06GT: with your "Track Proven combos", did you ever drive them on the street as well, and if so, were they street usable?
06GT: with your "Track Proven combos", did you ever drive them on the street as well, and if so, were they street usable?
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I think ya'll are getting cabin fever, lol, buying all this stuff before you even drive the car and spending money on something based on the opinion of a magazine editor...
Here's my opinion, take it with a grain of salt. Drive the car on track first THEN decide what to get and what it needs! Not only will you then know EXACTLY where the weak points are, but you all also have a better appreciation for the mods you install to fix the issue than you would just slapping them on as soon as you buy the car based on a complaint you read in a magazine article.
Here's my opinion, take it with a grain of salt. Drive the car on track first THEN decide what to get and what it needs! Not only will you then know EXACTLY where the weak points are, but you all also have a better appreciation for the mods you install to fix the issue than you would just slapping them on as soon as you buy the car based on a complaint you read in a magazine article.
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Thanks that's exacty what i was looking for!!
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None of the ones mentioned are street suitable, unless you want noise, dust, and ruined rotors...