BBS Boss 302R wheel
#21
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I believe these are BBS CH-R rims... They come in silver or black w/ a polished lip... Run for about $600/piece; I've seen a lot of these on European cars (Audi/BMW)...
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
http://www.bbs.com/en/company/news/ch-r_en.html
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
http://www.bbs.com/en/company/news/ch-r_en.html
Last edited by chutoyy; 12/12/10 at 10:15 PM.
#22
urrite
#23
I believe these are BBS CH-R rims... They come in silver or black w/ a polished lip... Run for about $600/piece; I've seen a lot of these on European cars (Audi/BMW)...
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
http://www.bbs.com/en/company/news/ch-r_en.html
Someone correct me if I'm wrong?
http://www.bbs.com/en/company/news/ch-r_en.html
Well not exactly right. The BBS Ford wheel is 18 inch the one you linked to is 20". They have been making the 302R wheel for a long time now the CH-R according to BBS is brand new.
#24
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Fingers crossed that they do. That would make an excellent track AND street wheel.
#25
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**updated**
Got a call from Rehagen Racing. They will bolt up directly to our car at all four corners! They DO require different lug nuts, but it's only $20 for the full set of 20.
Apparently they are testing with Ford on the Boss this week, but she wasn't sure if it is these wheels or different BBS ones.
She also said they did a car in "Home Depot" colors and had the Boss wheels powdercoated black. I attached a photo. She thought the cost was around $1110 but these wheels were used. She said it should be less on new ones since sandblasting wouldn't be required. For me, I think I'll just go with the stock color since they will be track wheels and hard to keep looking nice anyway.
She is also checking on max tire sizes and hopes to get that back to me by the end of the week.
Got a call from Rehagen Racing. They will bolt up directly to our car at all four corners! They DO require different lug nuts, but it's only $20 for the full set of 20.
Apparently they are testing with Ford on the Boss this week, but she wasn't sure if it is these wheels or different BBS ones.
She also said they did a car in "Home Depot" colors and had the Boss wheels powdercoated black. I attached a photo. She thought the cost was around $1110 but these wheels were used. She said it should be less on new ones since sandblasting wouldn't be required. For me, I think I'll just go with the stock color since they will be track wheels and hard to keep looking nice anyway.
She is also checking on max tire sizes and hopes to get that back to me by the end of the week.
Last edited by cloud9; 12/13/10 at 11:25 AM.
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Rehagen is a great source, and I was thinking of contacting them as well regarding the BBS wheels. I'm assuming that once we install the wheel studs, we can still use the stock wheels with the lug nuts off of the studs (IOW, the factory lug nuts are no longer usable, but the factory wheels are).
#27
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The wheel studs do not need to be replaced. You just need specific lug nuts for the BBS wheels. They are tapered at a different angle than the stock lug nuts. If you use the stock lug nuts there is a risk that they will unseat and work loose. You will still use your stock lug nuts with your stock wheels. i.e. Stock Wheels + Stock Lug Nuts, BBS Wheels + BBS-specific lug nuts.
#28
Sweeeeeeeeeeeet. That is good news.
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The wheel studs do not need to be replaced. You just need specific lug nuts for the BBS wheels. They are tapered at a different angle than the stock lug nuts. If you use the stock lug nuts there is a risk that they will unseat and work loose. You will still use your stock lug nuts with your stock wheels. i.e. Stock Wheels + Stock Lug Nuts, BBS Wheels + BBS-specific lug nuts.
Looking forward to what they recommend for tires.
#30
Otherwise Nitto NT01 in 275/40/18...or 275/35/18 if you want a shorter effective gear ratio.
Toyo RA1 in the same sizes if you need the NASA/AI Spec tire
#31
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What's your opinion on the NT01 vs. the RA1? I've got a ton of experience on the R888 (love em or hate em) and some with the R6s, but they are pencil erasers and I like my track time too much for the cost of those.
Also several guys I know are running Goodyear or Michelin slicks. I haven't tried them yet, but am interested in trying them.
Even though Ford's giving us a staggered set stock, you recommend squaring up all four corners? I know it helps with longevity since you can swap them around front to back, but from a performance standpoint, I wonder about running a 295 or 305 out back. I'm going to guess 275 is the biggest tire we'll get up front regardless of rim size.
#32
Even though Ford's giving us a staggered set stock, you recommend squaring up all four corners? I know it helps with longevity since you can swap them around front to back, but from a performance standpoint, I wonder about running a 295 or 305 out back. I'm going to guess 275 is the biggest tire we'll get up front regardless of rim size.
Run the tires equal size all around for the track. You can rotate them, and it will make the car more neutral (plus you can fine tune this w/ the dampers on the BOSS).
Running more rear tire out back is only going to introduce more understeer into the car on-track; bad, because now you're giving up some ability to (smoothly) throttle-steer/rotate the car. If you think the rears have problems hooking up on corner exit, recalibrate your foot.
Last edited by 06GT; 12/14/10 at 10:57 AM.
#33
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A factory setup is still (to some degree) concerned with driver safety and preventing people from getting in over their heads. The larger rear tire on the factory setup will promote understeer (which is favorable to oversteer if a driver isn't experienced). Additionally, the smaller tire up front will keep the car from tracking (following imperfections in the road) as much as a wider tire would. Both of these are fine for the street.
Run the tires equal size all around for the track. You can rotate them, and it will make the car more neutral (plus you can fine tune this w/ the dampers on the BOSS).
Running more rear tire out back is only going to introduce more understeer into the car on-track; bad, because now you're giving up some ability to (smoothly) throttle-steer/rotate the car. If you think the rears have problems hooking up on corner exit, recalibrate your foot.
Run the tires equal size all around for the track. You can rotate them, and it will make the car more neutral (plus you can fine tune this w/ the dampers on the BOSS).
Running more rear tire out back is only going to introduce more understeer into the car on-track; bad, because now you're giving up some ability to (smoothly) throttle-steer/rotate the car. If you think the rears have problems hooking up on corner exit, recalibrate your foot.
I do like the ability to throttle-steer the car. I'm really looking forward to tracking a more balanced Mustang than my big pig GT500. You literally just have to throw that thing around. Totally different than the Z06s I've driven on track where you just point and shoot. That car just goes where you want.....frankly it's less fun....I equate it to putting training wheels on a car.
#34
I don't think the BOSS will drive like a Z06 (physics of a 3600lb car vs a 3100lb car), but it will definitely be quite a bit better than a GT500.
#35
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I agree. A happy medium It's just kinda fun slinging a Mustang around on track. It'll be less work with the Boss. I am really intrigued about the ability to adjust the steering on the Boss. Should cut down on the "sawing" required to keep the GT500 steady through the turns.
Last edited by cloud9; 12/14/10 at 12:57 PM.
#37
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315/35/18 (or 315/30/18, not sure which) Hoosier A6 or R6. 10", 10.5", and 11" wheel.
Dave
#38
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Wow I'd like to see pics of this..... I know some guys have squeezed 285s up front on GT500s, but no way on 305s....I've tried that and it didn't fit on my car without rubbing.... Some guys that did an SLA from Griggs were able to do it, but not with the stock setup.
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See attached link: This is only one quick example.
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...35/scope/posts
I read in several places that the drag guys are fitting 335's in the rear. No cutting or grinding.
Dave
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...35/scope/posts
I read in several places that the drag guys are fitting 335's in the rear. No cutting or grinding.
Dave
#40
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See attached link: This is only one quick example.
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...35/scope/posts
I read in several places that the drag guys are fitting 335's in the rear. No cutting or grinding.
Dave
http://www.sccaforums.com/forums/for...35/scope/posts
I read in several places that the drag guys are fitting 335's in the rear. No cutting or grinding.
Dave
Some guys were putting 315s on 9.5 or 10" wheels but there's really no benefit. The tire is going to bulge so much that you're not getting any bigger contact patch, so again I see no benefit. As far as I can tell a 10" rim up front with a 275 or maybe 285 is going to give you the optimal performance. A 295 would probably fit ok up front but I am more worried about cornering ability and with a tire that's too big for the rim I think you just lose performance. Rehagen told me they were testing wheels/tires on the Boss this week. I am anxious to hear their results.