Help me build my Stereo.....
4/24/14, 10:17 PM
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Help me build my Stereo.....
Okay, wife approved to finally do the stereo.
Ordered Polk Audio db571's for the doors and the rear tonight. It seems the consensus is the leave the door midbass drivers alone, and for now, maybe for a while leave the Shaker Pro Sub alone.
Also ordered the 2010 era trim rings that I need.
I was just going to do that, but then i got the seed in my head to go all the way here.
sooo to start, I'm going to post what I've chosen, what my intentions are, and you give me feedback and anything else I might need..
The deck:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNX8...-DNX891HD.html
the integration adapter:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_794KITM...on-Adapter.htm
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ADSM...n-Adapter.html
I'd like to be able to use the stock XM/Sirius so i guess I need this tuner.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_220SXV2...0V1-Tuner.html
anything else?
Ordered Polk Audio db571's for the doors and the rear tonight. It seems the consensus is the leave the door midbass drivers alone, and for now, maybe for a while leave the Shaker Pro Sub alone.
Also ordered the 2010 era trim rings that I need.
I was just going to do that, but then i got the seed in my head to go all the way here.
sooo to start, I'm going to post what I've chosen, what my intentions are, and you give me feedback and anything else I might need..
The deck:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DNX8...-DNX891HD.html
the integration adapter:
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_794KITM...on-Adapter.htm
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_794ADSM...n-Adapter.html
I'd like to be able to use the stock XM/Sirius so i guess I need this tuner.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_220SXV2...0V1-Tuner.html
anything else?
4/25/14, 12:57 AM
#2
I'd amp the speakers with a four channel. Even better yet JL audio makes a five channel and you can run a sub too. I think kicker makes a cheaper one that is also five channels. I'd disconnect the door sub's, they are pretty weak. One 10" sub is plenty in these smaller cars. There is a stealth box on eBay for around $120 that fits in the trunk on the passenger side. I like kicker sub's like the L7 or L5.
4/25/14, 06:47 AM
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I'd amp the speakers with a four channel. Even better yet JL audio makes a five channel and you can run a sub too. I think kicker makes a cheaper one that is also five channels. I'd disconnect the door sub's, they are pretty weak. One 10" sub is plenty in these smaller cars. There is a stealth box on eBay for around $120 that fits in the trunk on the passenger side. I like kicker sub's like the L7 or L5.
Last edited by TheDivaDanielle; 4/25/14 at 07:06 AM.
4/25/14, 07:11 AM
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Shaker Pro, non-nav. I thought I was clear mentioning "shaker pro" up top, sorry if I wasn't :-)
System is stock at the moment. I'm going to be installing a CDC light bar in a few weeks, which requires me to remove most of the interior panels already, so I'm going to take it a step further and also replace the rear speakers with the Polk db571's which are mounted on the sides.
then I'm going to replace the door components, again with Polk db571's. leaving the stock door mid-bass drivers as they provide plenty of kick as is.
In 2013, they changed the Premium stereos in the Mustang, and supposdly the car now has two amps. My understanding is that one drives the Shaker Pro, and the other drives the door midbass, and the components are fed off the deck. I might be wrong though, and the components and midbass might be getting fed from a single amp.
System is stock at the moment. I'm going to be installing a CDC light bar in a few weeks, which requires me to remove most of the interior panels already, so I'm going to take it a step further and also replace the rear speakers with the Polk db571's which are mounted on the sides.
then I'm going to replace the door components, again with Polk db571's. leaving the stock door mid-bass drivers as they provide plenty of kick as is.
In 2013, they changed the Premium stereos in the Mustang, and supposdly the car now has two amps. My understanding is that one drives the Shaker Pro, and the other drives the door midbass, and the components are fed off the deck. I might be wrong though, and the components and midbass might be getting fed from a single amp.
Last edited by TheDivaDanielle; 4/25/14 at 07:15 AM.
4/25/14, 07:52 AM
#6
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Are you sure you want to do the head unit? Personally, I'd just get a processor, leave the dash stock, replace the 8" mids with better ones (JL ZR are good, or something from parts-express.com - Peerless, Dayton etc), replace the front speakers with components, mounting the mids in the stock 5x7 opening, then mounting the tweeters on the sail panels or A-pillars. You could even just do a 5.25" component set, mounting the tweeter and mid on 5x7 plates in the factory location - that way everything looks stock. You can replace the rears, but I'd leave them stock and just barely fade them in so they add just enough to your sound stage to let you know they're there, but not too much that they over power your significantly better front stage.
If you did that setup, I'd run a 5ch amp, A/B channels running the 5.25" comps passive (using the supplied passive crossovers), C/D channels to run the 8" mids, and the sub channel for your new sub. This is essentially what I have done in my Escape, and we've done dozens of setups like this at the shop I used to work at. In my Escape I'm running 3" components (3" mids + 1" tweeters) in fiberglassed A-pillars off the passive crossovers on the A/B, 6.5" mids in the doors bandpassed on the C/D channels and my subs off the sub channel. I don't have a fancy stock head unit, so my Alpine CDA-9835 (old school active deck) is running the 3-way system right now, doing all the crossovers and time alignment (T/A). This is a hybrid active/passive setup. Passive meaning you use the provided passive crossover networks for the components, active meaning you have a head unit or processor that allows you to set your crossovers, slopes and time alignment.
You will get much more enjoyment out of your money with the sound, versus a bunch of shiny lights and gauges on that Kenwood. Spend your extra money on the processor, amps and speakers versus the head unit.
If you did that setup, I'd run a 5ch amp, A/B channels running the 5.25" comps passive (using the supplied passive crossovers), C/D channels to run the 8" mids, and the sub channel for your new sub. This is essentially what I have done in my Escape, and we've done dozens of setups like this at the shop I used to work at. In my Escape I'm running 3" components (3" mids + 1" tweeters) in fiberglassed A-pillars off the passive crossovers on the A/B, 6.5" mids in the doors bandpassed on the C/D channels and my subs off the sub channel. I don't have a fancy stock head unit, so my Alpine CDA-9835 (old school active deck) is running the 3-way system right now, doing all the crossovers and time alignment (T/A). This is a hybrid active/passive setup. Passive meaning you use the provided passive crossover networks for the components, active meaning you have a head unit or processor that allows you to set your crossovers, slopes and time alignment.
You will get much more enjoyment out of your money with the sound, versus a bunch of shiny lights and gauges on that Kenwood. Spend your extra money on the processor, amps and speakers versus the head unit.
4/25/14, 07:54 AM
#7
Cobra R Member
^ I would probably go that route as well. I don't see the need of a new head unit.
I would also replace ALL the speakers...but that's just me. I've never listened to a factory stereo that actually sounded really good, in all cases they would've benefited from better speakers at the very least.
I would also replace ALL the speakers...but that's just me. I've never listened to a factory stereo that actually sounded really good, in all cases they would've benefited from better speakers at the very least.
4/25/14, 08:17 AM
#8
Legacy TMS Member
The factory 8s are supposed to be mid bass, but in the S197s I've been in, they're tuned more for sub bass and are very boomy. If you had an 8" mid that was actually tuned for mid bass, say 80-250hz, you would have incredible impact and punch. The drums would be kicking you in the throat/chest. The factory 8s do not do this. They might be tuned differently because of the Shaker Pro, but I can't say for sure if they are or aren't. My last experience with the Shaker 1000 was in a 2009 that I almost bought when the 2010s came out. The only difference in that setup was the 2 10s in the trunk, everything else was the same. I think the 13-14 Pro is different, but still, the speakers are the same as the base Shaker, so either way, you're not getting the best out of the 8s that are factory. We did a system in a 2011 Roush with the JL ZR mids, Hertz 5.25" components in the factory location on ABS plastic plates, keeping the mid and tweet in the same location, and the JL Stealthbox (12w3). I never got to hear it completed, but the owner told me it sounded amazing and the JLs really brought home that up-front kick that you want when you design a system with 8" mids.
4/25/14, 08:39 AM
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Are you sure you want to do the head unit? Personally, I'd just get a processor, leave the dash stock, replace the 8" mids with better ones (JL ZR are good, or something from parts-express.com - Peerless, Dayton etc), replace the front speakers with components, mounting the mids in the stock 5x7 opening, then mounting the tweeters on the sail panels or A-pillars. You could even just do a 5.25" component set, mounting the tweeter and mid on 5x7 plates in the factory location - that way everything looks stock. You can replace the rears, but I'd leave them stock and just barely fade them in so they add just enough to your sound stage to let you know they're there, but not too much that they over power your significantly better front stage.
If you did that setup, I'd run a 5ch amp, A/B channels running the 5.25" comps passive (using the supplied passive crossovers), C/D channels to run the 8" mids, and the sub channel for your new sub. This is essentially what I have done in my Escape, and we've done dozens of setups like this at the shop I used to work at. In my Escape I'm running 3" components (3" mids + 1" tweeters) in fiberglassed A-pillars off the passive crossovers on the A/B, 6.5" mids in the doors bandpassed on the C/D channels and my subs off the sub channel. I don't have a fancy stock head unit, so my Alpine CDA-9835 (old school active deck) is running the 3-way system right now, doing all the crossovers and time alignment (T/A). This is a hybrid active/passive setup. Passive meaning you use the provided passive crossover networks for the components, active meaning you have a head unit or processor that allows you to set your crossovers, slopes and time alignment.
You will get much more enjoyment out of your money with the sound, versus a bunch of shiny lights and gauges on that Kenwood. Spend your extra money on the processor, amps and speakers versus the head unit.
If you did that setup, I'd run a 5ch amp, A/B channels running the 5.25" comps passive (using the supplied passive crossovers), C/D channels to run the 8" mids, and the sub channel for your new sub. This is essentially what I have done in my Escape, and we've done dozens of setups like this at the shop I used to work at. In my Escape I'm running 3" components (3" mids + 1" tweeters) in fiberglassed A-pillars off the passive crossovers on the A/B, 6.5" mids in the doors bandpassed on the C/D channels and my subs off the sub channel. I don't have a fancy stock head unit, so my Alpine CDA-9835 (old school active deck) is running the 3-way system right now, doing all the crossovers and time alignment (T/A). This is a hybrid active/passive setup. Passive meaning you use the provided passive crossover networks for the components, active meaning you have a head unit or processor that allows you to set your crossovers, slopes and time alignment.
You will get much more enjoyment out of your money with the sound, versus a bunch of shiny lights and gauges on that Kenwood. Spend your extra money on the processor, amps and speakers versus the head unit.
the stock speakers are ****, so they are being upgraded to something better that i can swap without doing something nuts, since I'm not a major stereo installer.
i want the android ability to interface via MHL. i want the idatalink interface.
I could go with a cheaper deck, but my whole life i've always got the mid level radio because i couldn't afford the good one, I want the good one. i want to keep sirius, and for now, i want to keep the stock sub. additional amps and subs just add to the overall cost.
4/25/14, 10:11 AM
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I'll chime in and say that the factory head unit 'doesn't cut it'. I tried the incremental approach of JL Audio 6x8s in all 4 spots, then adding a 4x75w channel amp, and I was still disappointed with the bass roll off from the rears AND more importantly the sound quality.
The locked frequencies for Bass and Treble are specifically for the crap stock speakers. Adding a sound processor or equalizer its still trying to compensate for the crap signal coming out of the OEM head unit.
Initially I didn't think the Maestro kit and module was worth it, especially with the cost of a Kenwood head unit. But after seeing those installs, I think it's worth it. The fit and finish looks OEM, and nobody would ever think it looks aftermarket cheap.
I wouldn't want to 'under budget' an audio upgrade just to save a few bucks, especially if I had a Shelby.
See the links on this other thread where you can buy a bundle, and install yourself, or pay a shop. These Kenwoods have decent power, so you can use the on board amp to power your front and rear speakers. But I know from experience you really don't get much sound at all from the rears. Using the 2 channels from the Kenwood to power a pair of speakers in each door (components & woofer replacing the 8" below), and adding a powered sub in the trunk would be my suggestion.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...stalled/page11
The locked frequencies for Bass and Treble are specifically for the crap stock speakers. Adding a sound processor or equalizer its still trying to compensate for the crap signal coming out of the OEM head unit.
Initially I didn't think the Maestro kit and module was worth it, especially with the cost of a Kenwood head unit. But after seeing those installs, I think it's worth it. The fit and finish looks OEM, and nobody would ever think it looks aftermarket cheap.
I wouldn't want to 'under budget' an audio upgrade just to save a few bucks, especially if I had a Shelby.
See the links on this other thread where you can buy a bundle, and install yourself, or pay a shop. These Kenwoods have decent power, so you can use the on board amp to power your front and rear speakers. But I know from experience you really don't get much sound at all from the rears. Using the 2 channels from the Kenwood to power a pair of speakers in each door (components & woofer replacing the 8" below), and adding a powered sub in the trunk would be my suggestion.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...stalled/page11
4/25/14, 10:43 AM
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I'll chime in and say that the factory head unit 'doesn't cut it'. I tried the incremental approach of JL Audio 6x8s in all 4 spots, then adding a 4x75w channel amp, and I was still disappointed with the bass roll off from the rears AND more importantly the sound quality.
The locked frequencies for Bass and Treble are specifically for the crap stock speakers. Adding a sound processor or equalizer its still trying to compensate for the crap signal coming out of the OEM head unit.
Initially I didn't think the Maestro kit and module was worth it, especially with the cost of a Kenwood head unit. But after seeing those installs, I think it's worth it. The fit and finish looks OEM, and nobody would ever think it looks aftermarket cheap.
I wouldn't want to 'under budget' an audio upgrade just to save a few bucks, especially if I had a Shelby.
See the links on this other thread where you can buy a bundle, and install yourself, or pay a shop. These Kenwoods have decent power, so you can use the on board amp to power your front and rear speakers. But I know from experience you really don't get much sound at all from the rears. Using the 2 channels from the Kenwood to power a pair of speakers in each door (components & woofer replacing the 8" below), and adding a powered sub in the trunk would be my suggestion.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...stalled/page11
The locked frequencies for Bass and Treble are specifically for the crap stock speakers. Adding a sound processor or equalizer its still trying to compensate for the crap signal coming out of the OEM head unit.
Initially I didn't think the Maestro kit and module was worth it, especially with the cost of a Kenwood head unit. But after seeing those installs, I think it's worth it. The fit and finish looks OEM, and nobody would ever think it looks aftermarket cheap.
I wouldn't want to 'under budget' an audio upgrade just to save a few bucks, especially if I had a Shelby.
See the links on this other thread where you can buy a bundle, and install yourself, or pay a shop. These Kenwoods have decent power, so you can use the on board amp to power your front and rear speakers. But I know from experience you really don't get much sound at all from the rears. Using the 2 channels from the Kenwood to power a pair of speakers in each door (components & woofer replacing the 8" below), and adding a powered sub in the trunk would be my suggestion.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...stalled/page11
good suggestions!!
laserred38 is going to help me build this stereo from long distance it seems, as we've been texting back and forth today on this.
phase one will be adding sound deadening and replacing the ****ty stock speakers, but leaving the woofers and shaker pro for now..
Install the kenwood stuff when it arrives (he's looking to see how it'll all work, and if I will properly be able to EQ it all, or if the stock amps will lock it down)
From there, see how i feel about it, and if i'm not happy with it, try to address what's missing.
If the deck gives me good EQ control and actually let me control the sub output/low pass like how past decks have for me in the world before having factory amps and subs, I'll be golden. At least until I blow that factory sub up and upgrade to a single side mount 12 incher.
Budget isn't unlimited, but I can spend what I want. At the same time, I'm also not looking for a killer SPL stereo. Just enjoyable, covers all bases and even lets me have the HDMI/MHL control.
I'm no longer a basshead teenager, though I do still listen to Nelly and 2Pac from time to time.
4/25/14, 03:50 PM
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if you are getting a DNX891; just get an idatalink MUS1 dashkit and RR module... complete integration of everything, including sync, climate, gauges, TPMS and check engine lights controlled through the headunit.
i have this setup with an DNX890HD
i have this setup with an DNX890HD
4/25/14, 06:57 PM
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ordered yesterday:
Polk Audio db571 rear
Polk Audio db571 front
Ford Speaker trim rings for the doors
ordered today:
Kenwood eXcelon DNX891HD Navigation unit
iDatalink ADS Maestro Integration Kit
iDatalink ADS Maestro RR Adapter
Sirius XM SXV200V1 Tuner
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter
Arrived today:
Love The Drive Convertible Wind Deflector
Also in transit:
CDC Convertible Light Bar
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k D3S bulbs
DDM Tuning H11/H9 55w Kit
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k H11/H9 bulbs
going to be a busy month of May for me.
It's gonna be awesome!
Polk Audio db571 rear
Polk Audio db571 front
Ford Speaker trim rings for the doors
ordered today:
Kenwood eXcelon DNX891HD Navigation unit
iDatalink ADS Maestro Integration Kit
iDatalink ADS Maestro RR Adapter
Sirius XM SXV200V1 Tuner
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter
Arrived today:
Love The Drive Convertible Wind Deflector
Also in transit:
CDC Convertible Light Bar
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k D3S bulbs
DDM Tuning H11/H9 55w Kit
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k H11/H9 bulbs
going to be a busy month of May for me.
It's gonna be awesome!
Last edited by TheDivaDanielle; 4/25/14 at 07:00 PM.
4/26/14, 07:13 PM
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ordered yesterday:
Polk Audio db571 rear
Polk Audio db571 front
Ford Speaker trim rings for the doors
ordered today:
Kenwood eXcelon DNX891HD Navigation unit
iDatalink ADS Maestro Integration Kit
iDatalink ADS Maestro RR Adapter
Sirius XM SXV200V1 Tuner
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter
Arrived today:
Love The Drive Convertible Wind Deflector
Also in transit:
CDC Convertible Light Bar
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k D3S bulbs
DDM Tuning H11/H9 55w Kit
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k H11/H9 bulbs
going to be a busy month of May for me.
It's gonna be awesome!
Polk Audio db571 rear
Polk Audio db571 front
Ford Speaker trim rings for the doors
ordered today:
Kenwood eXcelon DNX891HD Navigation unit
iDatalink ADS Maestro Integration Kit
iDatalink ADS Maestro RR Adapter
Sirius XM SXV200V1 Tuner
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna Adapter
Arrived today:
Love The Drive Convertible Wind Deflector
Also in transit:
CDC Convertible Light Bar
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k D3S bulbs
DDM Tuning H11/H9 55w Kit
DDM Tuning Apexcone 4300k H11/H9 bulbs
going to be a busy month of May for me.
It's gonna be awesome!
Cheers,
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