Aerosmith221

Hey guys, I just bought a 2012 GT Premium, and was thinking about adding a sub or two to the shaker 500. Is this possible? I know that I do not want to replace the head unit, for I am in love with SYNC. Is adding subs going to be worth sacrificing extra trunk room? Also, would adding subwoofers to the original stereo require me to take the dash out of the car? I know I didn't have to do this to my previous vehicle, but I'm not sure about the mustang.

ColSaulTigh

Subwoofer: JL Audio Stealthbox and an amplifier (there are plenty to choose from). To get the sound, use an AudioControl LC2i or similar for more accurate bass. You won't need to remove the dash, you can tap into the rear speakers.

As for keeping the factory head unit because you want to keep SYNC - why? Most new head units will do everything SYNC does - better. If you're set on keeping it, may I suggest a Kenwood DNN990HD with an iDataLink Maestro RR and an iDataLink MUS1 Dash Kit? Complete integration and it will even incorporate the SYNC features...

If you'd like to read more, my build thread is HERE.

shouldhavegottheGT

It's pretty easy to do. You need a line out converter. They cost about $20 you can find them super cheap on eBay. Then just the sub and amp. Obviously the budget is up to you. It can be as cheap as $200-300 on up to $1000's.

The line out converter taps into your rear speaker to give you RCAs to hook up the amp. You'll also need to tap into your antennae with the remote wire to the sub. Just run your power cords to the battery and ground it. Shouldn't take more than a few hours.

My recommendation on a tight budget http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2013-FORD-MUSTANG-10-KICKER-CVT10-CUSTOM-FIT-SUBWOOFER-SUB-BOX-DX500-1-AMP-/310748081295?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item485a076c8f&vxp=mtr
JL if you've got some cash to spend.

zbrewha863

I would suggest a Stealthbox or something like that box above. I originally went with a larger box that cut off rear seat access, and it was kind of a pain on Home Depot runs when I needed to put large things in the trunk. Also, I would recommend getting a grill for the subwoofer, things rattling around in your trunk will dent the cone eventually otherwise.

egilber1

Hey- I am new to the the site-, but I am in the same boat. I have done some research and have decided to buy the FRD- 24 adapter. It gives you 2 channels of RCA output and a 'remote turn on' wire source with out cuting or splicing any wires (should be plug and play). I have not found an amp yet, but I will buy this soon- I think- it might be worth checking out!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...OEM-FRD24.html

(and I am not trying to sell this item or push it or anything- just trying to be helpful )

kingofsting

Welcome to the site!

This adapter looks cool. If I hadn't gone full aftermarket I'd definitely use it!

mac951

Welcome! I Also just added a sub to my car and used this adapter
http://amzn.com/B001EAWS3W
Just grab the lines from your rear speakers, theres no need to run wires from the front. Much cheaper and the rear speakers don't really contribute much to the sound of the car IMO so you can cut them out or splice them I'm whichever you prefer.

egilber1

Where did you tap in for the remote turn on?

mac951

I used the antenna on the passenger side of the trunk.

Idea was from someone else in another thread, don't have the link so ill post it later.

ColSaulTigh

Not my pic, but yes, that's where to pull remote-turn-on from.

Here's my solder-job (before I trimmed the excess and wrapped it):

egilber1

Thank you man!

ghjr

I used the speaker level in inputs on an Alpine MRX-M55, no need for converter.
It has auto on when signal is present so no need for turn on wire.

BJPGOLFNUT

I added 2 10" subs and amp to mine. I made a custom box that sits on the slant in the back of the trunk and up against the back of the rear seats. I did use a line out converter with remote a wire. So nothing with the stock system was messed with.