dean_acheson

I would much rather have this setup than what I did, which was the Scoshe dask kit and an AVIC unit.

2012 Boss 302.

Bit apprehensive about taking the car apart again... sigh.

jim010

Taking the dash out was a pain, but others have down this by only removing the dash trim panels.

10MustangGT

i did just the panels. i could definitely give you some tips that would speed you up quite a bit! it's not all too difficult, i just freaked out a few times because i thought i was doing stuff wrong. Jim helped me throughout and it really was not too bad at all! very pleased that i did it.

zeroaviation

Por Favor! I'm going to try and avoid taking the dash out myself, but we will see

jim010

If the dash comes out, make sure the rear view mirror comes out. And if you can, take out the shifter too.

jim010

Mind you, if you do take the dash out, you could then convert the climate system to dual zone since you'll have access to the temperature blend doors.

10MustangGT

that's all it takes to get dual zone..?

jim010

You need an actuator motor for the driver' side (~$20) and then new blend doors (I didn't look into this part too much).

Our cars have 2 blend doors. They open and close depending on how hot/cold you want it to allow more hot or more cold are into the ducting. 1 door mixes for the driver, and the other for the passenger. Right now, we have both blend doors connected and being controlled by the passenger side actuator.

To get dual zone, I believe we need to get the proper individually operating blend doors and the driver's actuator.

zeroaviation

Apart... Harness arrives tomorrow. Only broke one part

jim010

You have the climate harness too, right?

You have an opportunity here to make your system dual climate zone since your dash is apart. You can see the 2 temperature blend doors. There is an acuator on the left side for the driver's blend door. Otherwise, both doors operate together. The acuator on its own is not enough, though. I didn't look into it further, as I have no desire to take the dash out again, but I think new blend doors are needed.

jim010

Also, you'll have very little sound until you get an amp. You're going aftermarket?

And what did you break, out of curiosity?

zeroaviation

Yup! I decided to not fool with it any further. I'm ok with single zone.

I got the Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 for sound. I'll have to figure out how much of the factory wiring i can use.

I broke the driver side floor LED. It was when i sat the dash on my work bench :/

jim010

Easy and cheap to replace. No biggy.

I can tell you what pins are for what on the connectors when you get to wiring the amp, but I thought aftermarket stuff gets plugged in between the ACM and the harness?

rm2092

I'm WOWED at seeing that pic, you guys are putting in a lot of work just to install a OEM Nav. I would love to have one in my car but not that bad. I remember when I had my FX2 F150 and I ordered a factory nav from eBay. Just told them what I had in the truck and the install was in less then 15 minutes. Good wright up here and the post for the 13 gauges in the 2012.

zeroaviation

2 things that made me go OEM.

1. The fit, looks like it is meant to be. Aftermaket setups are not my flavor for looks.
2. Travel link, that crap is awesome! I can confirm it works just fine.

Mine is done! car #3 with nav swap.

rm2092

I agree I hate aftermarket setups, stock always looks better. I hope you don't have any extra nuts and bolts when it's all back together ?

zeroaviation

Nope, everything went back together perfectly.

I'm really enjoying this Travel Link feature... really cool to have gas stations with prices, weather.

jim010

You got the amp in, too?

There is certainly a level of satisfaction and pride when doing a project like this and then seeing it all back together and seeing it work.

zeroaviation

Yes, It was extremely simple to do. I will post some pictures of where to splice Sat, as i will be adding more to the system.

Basically the passenger speaker wires are in the white bulkhead connector in the kick panel, and the driver is the flat black spade right behind the OBD connector. (Pics and pinouts to come late tomorrow).

Used some quick connects, and was done.

The amp i chose was a Rockford Fosgate detailed in a previous post, its about 4 credit cards big, tucked it in behind the glove box.

I'm now debating what i should do with my leftover GPS module.. hummm.

dean_acheson

How does all of this work in a non-sync car?