Notices
'10-14 Interior and Audio Place to discuss 2010-2014 interior and audio type modifications.

Adding the OEM nav

Old 1/30/14, 02:33 PM
  #201  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jim010
Here is a comparison between the single and dual.

Orange is where the blend doors are located in the climate box.

Green and blue are the parts that are different. The harness and the climate box.

Red are the parts that are to be added. Another adjusting motor and temp sensor.

@jim010

Hello from Germany,

My 2014 GT arrived by my Dealer and now we want install a Oem Nav from a 2013 GT.

Do you have news about the amps by the 2014 or the sound work direct? I have the Shaker 500.

And the second Question about the Dual climate. Can we install the second adust. Motor, blend door, harness and temp sensor in the single climate box or we must install the dual climate box?

Thanks for your help.

PS: Sorry for my english....
Old 1/30/14, 04:46 PM
  #202  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
Qustions about the climate box will have to wait. The member that did this will post a write up on the week end.

As for the amp for a 2014, I will get back to you on this.
Old 1/30/14, 05:19 PM
  #203  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
It looks as though if you have the Shaker or Shaker Pro, then you have the external amp already.
Old 1/31/14, 03:11 PM
  #204  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jim010
It looks as though if you have the Shaker or Shaker Pro, then you have the external amp already.
Hi and thanks for reply,
Yes i have a GT Premium with Shaker 500, you mean i dont need the amp and the extra wiring to the speakers? You mean only the Base Model needs the amps?

Last edited by frequency79; 1/31/14 at 03:13 PM.
Old 1/31/14, 03:35 PM
  #205  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
If I understand my diagrams correctly, then you have the amp already.

Of course, if you plug it all in and you have no sound, then you do need the amp. If that happens, don't worry, as you don't need to take everything apart again. The OEM amp is supposed to be in the trunk - for a 2011/12 at least.
Old 1/31/14, 03:47 PM
  #206  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by jim010
If I understand my diagrams correctly, then you have the amp already.

Of course, if you plug it all in and you have no sound, then you do need the amp. If that happens, don't worry, as you don't need to take everything apart again. The OEM amp is supposed to be in the trunk - for a 2011/12 at least.
Ok thanks....then i hope you have news this weekend about the dual zone. The plan is maybe that we change the complete dual climate box inkl the climate harness and we hope that then the dual zone correct worked. Or what you think?
Old 1/31/14, 04:32 PM
  #207  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
The member that did the climate box says it works 100%. Do it all at once.
Old 1/31/14, 07:36 PM
  #208  
Member
 
Muskoka's Avatar
 
Join Date: December 4, 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hi
Jim and I have been PMing regarding the nav and dual zone upgrade that my son and I have done in his 2012 Premium Race Red.
We were able to purchase a nav system from a 2011 Shelby GT 500.
We followed Jims directions regarding the necessary components to install for a nav system.
I decided to also install the necessary components to get the dual zone system working as well.
My concern was that, I did not want to drain the coolant, as well as the AC freon and felt that even though Ford only sells the HVAC evaporator box as a complete unit (either single or dual zone) that there must be a way to convert a single zone car to a dual zone without too much difficulty. I was right.
The main difference is the air distribution plenum on the HVAC evaporator box, as well as one control door motor and the wiring harness.
The necessary components to do this conversion is as follows:
  • DR3Z-19850-B evaporator housing $254.79
  • AR3Z-18B574-B dual zone wiring harness $27.55
  • AR3Z-19E616-A Temperature blend door actuator motor $20.30
At this stage I'm assuming that any one who is about to convert from single to double zone will have taken out the dash purchased the components on Jims list and has a visual of the HVAC evaporator housing.
The included photo shows the difference from the single (still installed) and the double (on the transmission hump)
The only difference is that there is an extra temperature blend door actuator motor located on the drivers side of the plenum. When you purchase the evaporator housing using an 8MM socket set remove the self tapping screws holding the blend door housing onto the main evaporator housing. Using some of the removed screws install the new temperature blend door actuator motor onto the end of the drivers side blend door (see photo) .

Next remove the single zone evaporator housing (9 screws)( one is underneath) and remove the two existing blend door actuator motors being careful to install them in the same position on the dual zone plenum ( as they were on the single zone plenum) as they are different motors with different wiring connectors.
Install the dual zone plenum ( 9 screws) ( and two additional for the side housing) install the new wiring harness and when you replace the dash with the nav unit you now have dual zone HVAC controlled by the nav unit.
In the photo the single zone plenum is still installed. You can see on the drivers side of the dual zone the additional temperature blend door motor that we have installed. The whole conversion took us about 1 hour.

I also purchased a Rear spoiler with camera.
  • AR3Z-6344210-BA $284.31
This was done to have a OEM back up camera. My nephew owns a Maaco store so he painted the spoiler Race Red.
Since the existing 14A005 main wiring harness did not have the wiring for the OEM amp (located in the trunk) or the necessary wiring harness for the spoiler mounted backup camera, I decided to replace the main wiring harness.
  • CR3Z-14A005-KB $320.61
In order to replace this wiring harness the whole interior of the car has to be removed. This was not a job for the faint of heart . This replacement should only be done by those who have lots of experience with automobile wiring as well as funds to justify the cost. I'm glad that we did it since the wiring of the OEM audio amp in the trunk was a breeze as was the wiring for the Shaker 1000 sub woofer in the trunk and the wiring for the back up camera.
We installed a Lockpic with cameras installed in the license plate lower bolt hole and one on the passenger side mirror.

All in all the whole system works very well.
The only reason that I started on this is that my 21 year old son is very directionally challenged and having the nav unit has allowed him to get around without the distraction of looking at his phone.
If you have any questions I would be pleased to answer to the best of my ability



Attached Thumbnails Adding the OEM nav-dualplenum.jpg  
Old 1/31/14, 07:46 PM
  #209  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
That's awesome, great!

I will be doing this in the spring and get it fully functional.

Last mod I do after this will be the pony puddles and heated mirrors.
Old 2/1/14, 03:25 AM
  #210  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Smile

Originally Posted by Muskoka
Hi
Jim and I have been PMing regarding the nav and dual zone upgrade that my son and I have done in his 2012 Premium Race Red.
We were able to purchase a nav system from a 2011 Shelby GT 500.
We followed Jims directions regarding the necessary components to install for a nav system.
I decided to also install the necessary components to get the dual zone system working as well.
My concern was that, I did not want to drain the coolant, as well as the AC freon and felt that even though Ford only sells the HVAC evaporator box as a complete unit (either single or dual zone) that there must be a way to convert a single zone car to a dual zone without too much difficulty. I was right.
The main difference is the air distribution plenum on the HVAC evaporator box, as well as one control door motor and the wiring harness.
The necessary components to do this conversion is as follows:
  • DR3Z-19850-B evaporator housing $254.79
  • AR3Z-18B574-B dual zone wiring harness $27.55
  • AR3Z-19E616-A Temperature blend door actuator motor $20.30
At this stage I'm assuming that any one who is about to convert from single to double zone will have taken out the dash purchased the components on Jims list and has a visual of the HVAC evaporator housing.
The included photo shows the difference from the single (still installed) and the double (on the transmission hump)
The only difference is that there is an extra temperature blend door actuator motor located on the drivers side of the plenum. When you purchase the evaporator housing using an 8MM socket set remove the self tapping screws holding the blend door housing onto the main evaporator housing. Using some of the removed screws install the new temperature blend door actuator motor onto the end of the drivers side blend door (see photo) .

Next remove the single zone evaporator housing (9 screws)( one is underneath) and remove the two existing blend door actuator motors being careful to install them in the same position on the dual zone plenum ( as they were on the single zone plenum) as they are different motors with different wiring connectors.
Install the dual zone plenum ( 9 screws) ( and two additional for the side housing) install the new wiring harness and when you replace the dash with the nav unit you now have dual zone HVAC controlled by the nav unit.
In the photo the single zone plenum is still installed. You can see on the drivers side of the dual zone the additional temperature blend door motor that we have installed. The whole conversion took us about 1 hour.

I also purchased a Rear spoiler with camera.
  • AR3Z-6344210-BA $284.31
This was done to have a OEM back up camera. My nephew owns a Maaco store so he painted the spoiler Race Red.
Since the existing 14A005 main wiring harness did not have the wiring for the OEM amp (located in the trunk) or the necessary wiring harness for the spoiler mounted backup camera, I decided to replace the main wiring harness.
  • CR3Z-14A005-KB $320.61
In order to replace this wiring harness the whole interior of the car has to be removed. This was not a job for the faint of heart . This replacement should only be done by those who have lots of experience with automobile wiring as well as funds to justify the cost. I'm glad that we did it since the wiring of the OEM audio amp in the trunk was a breeze as was the wiring for the Shaker 1000 sub woofer in the trunk and the wiring for the back up camera.
We installed a Lockpic with cameras installed in the license plate lower bolt hole and one on the passenger side mirror.

All in all the whole system works very well.
The only reason that I started on this is that my 21 year old son is very directionally challenged and having the nav unit has allowed him to get around without the distraction of looking at his phone.
If you have any questions I would be pleased to answer to the best of my ability



Hello Jim and Muskoka,

thanks for your help. I let you know when we are finish with that.

@Muskoka

Jim wrote the dual zone has a tempature sensor, but i dont find it in your installation manual? The Sensor has the AR3Z-19c734? Do you installed this or?

Last edited by frequency79; 2/1/14 at 08:25 AM.
Old 2/1/14, 09:35 AM
  #211  
Member
 
Muskoka's Avatar
 
Join Date: December 4, 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hi
The temperature sensor is already in the single zone evaporator housing and does not need to be replaced.
Rob
Old 2/1/14, 10:19 AM
  #212  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Muskoka
Hi
The temperature sensor is already in the single zone evaporator housing and does not need to be replaced.
Rob
Ok, i find only by fordparts.com the sensor for the dual zone but the dual tone has two sensors.

The single zone sensor has the BR3Z-19C734-D

And the Dual Zone has the AR3Z-19C734-A only for the Dual Zone but were i have toinstall this?. I find also the sensor name "in-car sensor at plenum chamber".

Andre

Last edited by frequency79; 2/1/14 at 05:04 PM.
Old 2/3/14, 05:55 PM
  #213  
Member
 
Muskoka's Avatar
 
Join Date: December 4, 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hi
Regarding the AR3Z-19C734-A. That is an ambient temperature sensor that is installed in the back of the bezel containing the nav switches as well as the temperature controls.
If you are purchasing a nav screen and ACM from another car with the HVAC control module and the switch bezel, then the temperature sensor will already be installed in the back of the bezel with two self tapping screws. The picture showing the temperature sensor is a challenge since it does not show where the sensor is mounted.
If you have the Ford mustang service workshop manual then the installation location is on drawing on page 412-01-2 listed as the "In-vehicle Temperature Sensor".
If you need that drawing let me know.
Regards
Rob
Old 2/3/14, 08:10 PM
  #214  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
Thanks Muskoka for pioneering this.
Old 2/4/14, 12:03 PM
  #215  
Member
 
frequency79's Avatar
 
Join Date: January 30, 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi,

I had suspected that the sensor is installed on the bezel. Thanks thats helped me. I let you know when we sucess the installation.

Last edited by frequency79; 2/4/14 at 12:05 PM.
Old 2/9/14, 09:14 PM
  #216  
V6 Member
 
defiance772's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 1, 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hello muskoka. Whats the difference between this DR3Z-19850-B and this one DR3Z-19850-A. Is one dual zone and the other single zone. Hopefully you shed some light on this
Old 2/10/14, 06:46 PM
  #217  
Member
 
Muskoka's Avatar
 
Join Date: December 4, 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hi Defiance
The difference is:
R3Z-19850-A is the single zone HVAC evaporator housing with positions for one AR3Z-19E616-A temperature blend door actuator and one AR3Z-19E616-D temperature blend door actuator. Both of these door actuator motors are already in your single zone unit.
R3Z-19850-B is a dual zone HVAC evaporator housing with positions for
- 2 AR3Z-19E616-A temperature door actuators and one AR3Z-19E616-D temperature blend door actuator motor.

When replacing the existing single zone HVAC housing, you need to save the two blend door actuators and reinstall them into the B model in the same locations since the motors are different with different wiring connectors. Then you need to install the additional AR3Z-19E616-A actuator motor onto the drivers side blend door. If you look at the photo you will see that the unit that is already installed (DR3Z-19850-A) does not have the blend door actuator. You can see a beige tube with no actuator. The second plenum has been removed from a DR3Z-19850-B and has the AR3Z-19E616-A already installed.
I hope that that clears every thing up. If not let me know.
Regards

Rob
Old 2/10/14, 08:44 PM
  #218  
GTR Member
 
Overboost's Avatar
 
Join Date: September 28, 2009
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Muskoka,

Changing the one harness mentioned is all that's required to make the OEM amp work with the rest of the system? I'm curious because I'd like to avoid rewiring the stereo if at all possible and go as OEM a solution as possible.
Old 2/10/14, 09:34 PM
  #219  
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
 
jim010's Avatar
 
Join Date: November 7, 2006
Location: Alberta
Posts: 2,790
Received 40 Likes on 35 Posts
Be warned that if you decide to go with the OEM body harness, it is expensive, and you need to pretty much gut the interior and trunk to swap it out.

Or am I wrong Muskoka?
Old 2/11/14, 11:21 AM
  #220  
V6 Member
 
defiance772's Avatar
 
Join Date: July 1, 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Hey Muskosa thanks for the info that cleared up a lot of questions I have everything for the navigation system except the main wiring harness and dual zone components which I will buy. Question and this goes for Muskosa and Jim. How hard is it to take out the whole entire dash. I mean looking at the picture the steering wheel is also gone and airbags. So it looks very scary to do lol. So before ordering the missing pieces I will be taking apart the dash because at the moment the car is stored for the winter. Please advise me on any advice you guys got. Thank you both for figuring this all out because I almost bought the raxiom navigation system and it just didn't look oem to me

Last edited by defiance772; 2/11/14 at 11:22 AM.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Adding the OEM nav



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:27 PM.