Clark Kent

I have recently had problems with a bad battery and have been jumping my car from time to time to get it going. Have been dumb and without enough time to go get a new battery. Well today I had to jump it in the morning to get to work. At lunch when I went to start it battery was dead. When I got it jumped it would start throttle suddenly to 2k rpm and then suddenly shut off. It would do this for anywhere between 15-30 secs, and sometimes suddenly. Also the other car was still hooked up with jumpers while it did this. When I would try to throttle it would either not respond or respond very little and shut off even quicker. I tried putting in a new battery and the car would start right away, but with the same result. The only way to keep the car started was to disconnect the throttle wire/or fuse? under the dash. Not sure what my mechanic friend did that. The car would go into limp mode, however remain started and able to limp home. I tried re flashing my tune, but the same result. Now nothing even close to this was occuring for the time the battery was giving me trouble, it was just suddenly today. When my friend hooked up his reader it said something in regard to throttle module( I did not get a chance to write down the codes) error. Any ideas as to what this could be?

05YellowGT

If you've had some sensor or component going bad and giving the computer results it didn't expect , then instead of using the suspect data it would've been using the data stored in adaptive memory and the car would still run. Once you completely lost power the adaptive memory would have been cleared and now the computer has to use the data the senor is giving it. So you may have had a problem for sometime and just didn't know it. Sorry I can't be of more help ...

Clark Kent

could this be a TPS or a throttle body issue?

ford4v429

unhook the battery, and touch the cables together for a few seconds to fully discharge everything, clearing any memory...hook the battery back up (long as it has a little juice), turn the key on(but dont start) dont touch the brake pedal, after a few seconds the airbag/other lights go off, smoothly press the pedal to the floor and smoothly release, turn off key, wait 5 seconds...(this *supposedly* remaps the pedal/throttle body stops, but read a couple tuners said BS, not on a ford...anyway I swear it helps mine if the pedal ever gets acting funny...cant hurt, so why not.)

start it(jumping shouldnt matter)...should be back to normal. the first time you drive it, get it up over 60mph, then without touching the brakes, lift off the gas and let engine braking only slow you to under 40 mph- this calibrates the misfire sensor on the crankshaft (per a ford document I found on the web- it DEFINITELY 'fixed' mine: i had swapped batteries, first time on highway 3 days later i hit the clutch coasting down a offramp, car stalled, then idled between 400-2000 rpm/stalled 4 times...after clearing/doing proper relearn thing, it was 100% like new again)

good luck- hopefully yours just mapped some bad data too and no parts will be required either
Tim

Clark Kent

The car is throwing up codes P2104, P2110, and P060B. I have cleaned the throttle body, put it in a new battery, tried disconnecting the TSP, MAF, and the Gas Pedal itself. The only thin that makes a difference is disconnecting the plug down by the pedal. Doing so allows the car to idle correctly and remain running.

05YellowGT

OK , I did a little research on this ...

O061B : Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance , it says it should be set in combination with P2106 which is a TAC problem Forced Limited Power , and which you don't list. When I first got my car and Steeda hadn't quite worked out the tune for the CMDP's , on occasion when I made too much torque the computer would throw these two codes and put my car into the forced limited power mode. You could drive it as long as you only gave it a little gas , or if you pulled over and turned the car off and restarted it you could drive again ...

P2104 : Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Forced idle - The TAC system is in failure mode effects management (FMEM) mode of forced idle. It says it could be either a damaged APP ( acceleration pedal position ) sensor or an open or short in the circuit for it. I assume that's the plug down by the pedal you're talking about disconnecting. It also says it could be a damaged PCM and that is an informational DTC and can be set with other DTC's which should be checked first.

P2110 : Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) System - Forced Limited RPM - The TAC system in in the failure moded effects management (FMEM) mode of forced limited RPM. It says it could be a crossed wire on the TAC motor or a damaged PCM.

Assuming that if you had a bad PCM you would get other problems too , it sounds to me like you've got a bad APP sensor or a problem in it's circuit. Then once power to the computer was cut and it lost the good data in the adaptive memory , it knew there was a problem and started throwing codes. I'm definitely no expert , so take this with a grain of salt , but it's what I would've looked at if I'd gotten the codes. Good luck and I hope this helps you a little ...

Clark Kent

Thanks Yellow, Yeah I have had the tune forever and there has never been any problems. I think by maybe jump starting it so many times I may have fried something (PCM), but than there should be other electronic problems I would presume. I think you are correct in APP. I have tried changing the TPS , but that has had no effect. My mechanic said he cannot find any problem. He is suggesting I get it flashed back to stock, but I have heard that is a no no, when you have tune loaded. I'm seriously confused.

Clark Kent

no go mechanic checked all voltages. Everything is fine. I have to take it to the dealer, but I need to flash back to stock, but my bama tune does not allow that. My SCT tuner does not show that option. I wonder how I can flash it back.

05YellowGT

You should have a "return to stock" option on the SCT , see the attached picture , You'll also need to put your stock air box back on ...

AMChrisRose

I would start by returning to stock and then throwing on the stock airbox. Start the car, see if the symptoms get better/get worse/stay the same. Also, see if the CEL's still appear. Those happen alot if the throttle body electronics have an issue. There's a spring that's loaded inside a "cap" on the drivers side. This is often the culprit. I'll have to look around, but there are directions on TMS that will show you how to adjust it while measuring voltage.