silvagsr

Any opinions on how where to mount this. This should fix trunk lighting .

silvagsr

Better photo

houtex

I'd say just make it a single strip across the back underside of the trunk. Near the speakers, that area. Pin it up there, and it'll light the trunk excellently.

If you wanted one on the trunk door, well... put one there too.

Trumpetlon

I installed a 36" strip of blue LED's on the underside of the top of the trunk just in front of where the speakers are mounted. It works great to light up my trunk and it matches the MyColor I chose as well. If you live where it gets really hot, you might consider using some epoxy like I did to make it hold.

spqr

I'd like to do something like this. What's the best way to get power to the LED strip?

silvagsr

I'm about to tap into the rear bulb area and just run the lines behind plastic to the trunk shelf metal or the brace that holds the rear speakers. Trying to decide if I want the light shining down or at an angle towards the rear. Need to wait until it gets dark again to test out. Also considering a hidden toggle switch to cut off whenever.

silvagsr

Ok ran into a snag. I believe I blew a fuse, but I cannot find a blown fuse. The light bulb is not working in the trunk, and it is not burned out, from what I can see. The interior fuse panel is super tight to get to and the manual is not that good stating which is what. Going to have to do some research, unless anyone else has prior experience with fuse that controls rear trunk light. Looks light rear trunk light has hit a temporary snag.

silvagsr

this site is great. #25 fixed the problem back to work now

spqr

aren't you going to continue to blow fuses if you're running the light bulb and the led strip?

silvagsr

Did not plan too, but if that does happen do u have any suggestions?

houtex

Well, the thing to do to eliminate the fuse blowin' problem is to run a main power cable (appropriately fused or circuit breakered, of course) from the battery to the trunk. I'd run a nice 4-8 gauge, because future amps (yes, I will be doing this for Awesome one day.) You may even want to have a dual terminal setup to run directly from the main positive cable, and then to the battery, and the trunk, but that'd be your call, of course.

Once you get the power line into the trunk, however you do that (along the underside? Through the cabin?), you can then add a nice Fuse Block for the appropriate amount of power for whatever amps you'll be running. And then tap off that another, smaller, fuse block to handle smaller things like the lights. All of this, I would say, could be put either on the wheel wheel area, or somehow affixed to the package tray, for out of sight, but ease of wiring. Right side would make more sense, but whatever floats your boat on the locations, really.

And then you get the 12V, 30Amp relays you see everywhere. One of those you configure to work with the lamp. Your input is a tap from the trunk light. The power, ground, and outgoing power are as needed to the light. You can put a switch either on the tap line, or the incoming power line, whichever is appropriate, to kill the lamp, as I think you indicated you wanted this ability.

That'll solve the fuses and prep the car for major bumpage of amps and subs. Be sure to look into a capacitor and/or possibly a second battery back there depending on how much amps you're gonna be pushin' around.