wentw1tj

What upper control arm should I get to remove wheel hop, I dont care how load it makes the car and if the road noise is increased. I am looking at the whiteline and Roush Rear Wheel Hop Reduction Kit. I already have the BMR lower control arms, but I stil have very bad wheel hop. I cant believe how bad the wheel hop is on there cars, it is horrible. I do NOT plan on lowering the car.

2014 GT TP 6 speed M

Thanks

Further

You need the relocation brackets. Not UCA's.

Brandon302

I would look at getting any UCA that is adjustable, really the only reason why I most likely will go with the Steeda UCA over the Whiteline piece.

joey8

IIRC whiteline UCA has the least amount of increase on NVH. Not to mention their high quality products. And yes get the LCA relo brackets as well as the UCA and UCA bracket as well. That should be a vast improvement over stock.

wentw1tj

I just called BMR and they said that I would try the relocation brackets first. than if I still have it get the UCA that is addj.

I still dont understand what the relocation brackets do, they said it does not change the pinion angle, but change the center and geometry. how does this remove wheel hop?

Fawls

For traction the rear (axle end) of your LCA must be lower than the front. If you haven’t lowered your car there ‘shouldn’t’ be any need for the relocation brackets. Best to check out the LCA angle and go from there. If its all good for the LCA angle I would get the UCA first, if not the relocation brackets first. For what its worth I have heard the BMR brackets are the best design if you’re not going to weld them.

theACE

I have a stock ride height, factory suspension 2012 brembo GT with 3.55 gears....just installed the BMR poly/spherical boxed LCA's and the on car BMR adjustable poly upper control arm with upgraded mount.

The car feels so much better transitioning between uneven pavements on highways and fast roads, the wheel hop is completely gone, I hook up and leave 2 streaks of rubber on the road when I dump the clutch....never used to happen before.

I love these two mods, and no I did not get the relocation brackets.... (Shop told me that they are only for lowered cars, and that the LCA/UCA/UCA Mount would fix all the wheel hop, which it certainly did)

Kabooka

You can read in my sig what I did, car is amazingly different. Well planted, better launch, all around awesome. The relocation brackets, I believe, have three holes, one for non-lowered, one for up to 1.5 inches lowered, and one for 2+. Anyway, I think you'll be pleased with the results.

tj@steeda

We make high quality products that are made right here in the U.S.A. We also track test our products so we know they will hold up under harsh conditions.

Here is a link to our units:

http://www.steeda.com/store/ford-mus...trol-arms.html

All cars don't react the same so what worked for someone ... may not necessarily work for you.

Best Regards,

TJ

Kabooka

+1 here, so really I would call whomever you feel is the best product for you, explain what is happening, explain where you want to be, and then review the products suggested. Thing is, it may not be one item that will cure your situation, may need several.

wentw1tj

Thank you so much for your reply did you have to adjust your Pinion angle or did you just install the upper mount. What did you use to adjust the Upper mount was your suspension loaded or was it free hanging on a left?

Thanks so much

MRGTX

Hey, Went1tj,
Did it work?

Assuming you're looking a adjustable units, is one UCA really better than another? There is a fairly substantial price difference...

bob

Also UCA is rendered somewhat ineffective by that big rubber bushing on the axle side. The bushing needs to be replaced to make a UCA truly effective.

Five Oh Brian

My '11 GT was a manual trans car with Brembo package and terrible wheel hop. Went with dual adjustable LCA's and couldn't adjust them enough to cure the wheel hop. Put the stock LCA's back on (for NVH reasons) and went with a Steeda adjustable UCA with their upgraded bushing on the axle side. Adjusted pinion angle and the axle hop was completely cured and traction improved with better 60' times at the dragstrip. The rest of the suspension was completely stock.

Uncle Jonfrey

Our s197's have a 3-link rear end. The lca's are the 2 lower links, and the uca is the third. The overly soft rubber bushings in the stock arms are good for a compliant ride, but allow for a lot of play...which is wheel hop. The oem links are made of stamped steel which lacks rigidity and flexes relatively easily. This though, is not what causes wheel hop on the street. The mushy rubber bushings are the cause. By changing lca's, you are upgrading to poly bushings which allow very little play. Arms w spherical bushings are for track applications only and not the most suitable for use on the street as they have more nvh and will wear out faster than poly. Ok..so now you are not absorbing the movement in the lower arms, this means you are transferring that duty to the stock uca with its crappy rubber bushing which allows the axle to still pivot...which is wheel hop. You must change the uca along with the lca's to take advantage of the poly bushings on all 3 links..this is wheel hop elimination. The uca bracket is not necessary if you are breaking the rear end loose on the street w summer tires. Plus, TP cars already have a heavier duty bracket than regular gt's. However, if you are dumping the clutch at 4000 at a sticky drag strip with slicks, then maybe non-TP cars need the upper bracket. LCA relo brackets are only needed to adjust angle of attack for traction on lowered cars. Adj uca is needed only on lowered cars for adjustment of pinion angle to eliminate DS vibration. So to recap, if you are not planning to lower your stang, but want to further reduce hop, get a cheap non-adj uca with poly bushings. Bmr makes beast pieces and Jay@hypermotive is where I'd start. Here are some photos showing where I may have picked up a thing or two in my quest to kill the hop. I was successful, but this is somewhat overkill bc I do not frequent the strip

MRGTX

Excellent info, Five Oh Brian and Uncle Jonfrey!!

spqr

I may be wrong, but I've heard that the non-adjustable uppers tend to break as they can't handle the torsion when the rear wheels are under differing loads (such as hitting a pot hole or speed bump with one tire).

bob

That would be bind in an extreme case I think. The axle side bushing should be compliant enough to let the UCA twist without breaking however using urethane at both ends would exasperate the problem in and adjustable and non adjustable form.


This is would alleviate the problem





and/or this which would solve the issue with bind.

MRGTX

TJ,
I'm giving the Steeda adjustable UCA a shot...hoping that will do the trick for my pony. I ordered it from AM, it should be in my hands tomorrow...

I'm being a wimp and having it installed...is it corect that it should be adjusted to the identical length of the stock unit at to replace a stock part at stock ride height?

El Coyote GT/CS

Completely agree. Good info. But that UCA looks like it would be real noisy. I've "heard" the Rousch unit is a good compromise for a street car; much stiffer but quiet.