Oil, oil changes, and oil filter discussion
1/13/12, 05:12 PM
#21
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 1, 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's a combination of different engines and the fact that those models will more than likely see more track time than a standard GT.
1/13/12, 06:12 PM
#22
V6 Member
Join Date: October 18, 2011
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The issue is more whether it's wise to run oils with a viscosity outside what's recommended.
1/13/12, 06:58 PM
#23
GT Member
Join Date: October 9, 2011
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Especially one as thick as 20W-50. That thing pours like honey where a 5W-50 is close to water. It will take much longer to circulate after a cold start.
Years ago I actually had an engine scorch a rocker arm because the 20W-50 took so long to get up to the valve train. It's a very thick oil.
Years ago I actually had an engine scorch a rocker arm because the 20W-50 took so long to get up to the valve train. It's a very thick oil.
1/13/12, 08:05 PM
#24
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Join Date: September 5, 2011
Location: Cleburne, Tx
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Run what you want oil guru's... you obviously know more than the engineers that designed the car do. As for me. My car runs just fine on the recommended oil. I have no plans of switching.
1/14/12, 01:01 AM
#26
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 15, 2011
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It has been said by a few people at Ford and some race teams (Grand-Am, World Challenge...the same motor as ours)....
USE 5W-50!!!! All these people use the factory fill..........
USE 5W-50!!!! All these people use the factory fill..........
1/14/12, 09:31 AM
#27
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 1, 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1/14/12, 10:17 AM
#28
GT Member
Join Date: October 29, 2011
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe its beeen posted in another forum, the 5 weight is there for the cold start. The oil pressure tensioners react differently to the thicker oil and if I remember right caused some problems for another Boss owner.
1/14/12, 10:25 AM
#29
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Join Date: September 5, 2011
Location: Cleburne, Tx
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by BLAZN BOSS
I believe its beeen posted in another forum, the 5 weight is there for the cold start. The oil pressure tensioners react differently to the thicker oil and if I remember right caused some problems for another Boss owner.
1/14/12, 10:59 AM
#30
GT Member
Join Date: October 29, 2011
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL......i feel what your saying, Just the cost of publishing oil info, molding the oil fill cap costs hundreds of thousands of dollars. They just dont do this for their health or some covert way to make a buck.
1/14/12, 11:03 AM
#31
Bear Eats King...
Bear ****s Bone
Bear ****s Bone
Join Date: September 5, 2011
Location: Cleburne, Tx
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Originally Posted by BLAZN BOSS
LOL......i feel what your saying, Just the cost of publishing oil info, molding the oil fill cap costs hundreds of thousands of dollars. They just dont do this for their health or some covert way to make a buck.
1/14/12, 11:39 AM
#34
GT Member
Join Date: August 4, 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got back to reading this thread and it has brought out some excellent discussion and information on oil. I've learned some new things, and refreshed my recall on some old things.
A bit of an aside, some years ago I switched out of single weight oil ( think it was 40 or 50) to multi grade synthetic oil (I think it was 15W - 50) in my air cooled Lycoming aircraft engine. As a result, I experienced better cooling and higher oil pressure in summer weather. But one time I had to replace a cylinder, and thereafter oil consumption was noticeably higher. The conclusion I drew,rightly or wrongly, was that the piston and rings in this jug never broke in as well with the synthetic oil.
That is why I thought hard about going to 'non-synthetic' oil (like 20 or 30 weight) after an intiial 1500 mile break-in period in my Boss, so I could get better seating of the rings and pistons, etc. Then at 5000 miles I would again go back to Ford's synthetic 15-50 oil.
I didn't do this and I've got 3000 miles on the car now, with one oil change under my belt at 2000 miles. (I always like to do the first oil change early in any new vehicle). This is to get rid of any metal particles cut during break-in, which particles seemed to be minimal for this first oil change in the Boss. Is that because the synthetic oil is not breaking in the engine fully, or because the engine is extreemly well built to start with? I don't know, and I just realizing that I need to monitor my engine oil consumption more closely. (BTW, the Boss used 3/4 of a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles and I did not top up again before the 2000 mile change.)
O.K., That's going to all my ramblings on this oil topic today,.....
Cheers,
A bit of an aside, some years ago I switched out of single weight oil ( think it was 40 or 50) to multi grade synthetic oil (I think it was 15W - 50) in my air cooled Lycoming aircraft engine. As a result, I experienced better cooling and higher oil pressure in summer weather. But one time I had to replace a cylinder, and thereafter oil consumption was noticeably higher. The conclusion I drew,rightly or wrongly, was that the piston and rings in this jug never broke in as well with the synthetic oil.
That is why I thought hard about going to 'non-synthetic' oil (like 20 or 30 weight) after an intiial 1500 mile break-in period in my Boss, so I could get better seating of the rings and pistons, etc. Then at 5000 miles I would again go back to Ford's synthetic 15-50 oil.
I didn't do this and I've got 3000 miles on the car now, with one oil change under my belt at 2000 miles. (I always like to do the first oil change early in any new vehicle). This is to get rid of any metal particles cut during break-in, which particles seemed to be minimal for this first oil change in the Boss. Is that because the synthetic oil is not breaking in the engine fully, or because the engine is extreemly well built to start with? I don't know, and I just realizing that I need to monitor my engine oil consumption more closely. (BTW, the Boss used 3/4 of a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles and I did not top up again before the 2000 mile change.)
O.K., That's going to all my ramblings on this oil topic today,.....
Cheers,
1/15/12, 05:26 AM
#35
V6 Member
Join Date: January 4, 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Motorcraft oils are made by Conoco Phillips/Kendall. The discontinued Kendall Trop-Arctic 5w50 has been said to be the exact same thing as motorcraft 5w50 just rebranded as it met both A and B specs, however I can't find anything that confirms itbis identical to the motorcraft. The Ford GT specs WSS-M2C931-A, from what everyone can tell, the B spec is just more cat friendly. I am telling you guys, there is nothing special about this oil. Is it good oil? Yes. I think your car will see a long and healthy life with motorcraft oil. I promise you though that there is nothing that makes it any better for or motors than say mobile 1 5w50. Outside of warranty concerns, there is no reason not run a similar quality 5w50. Stick with any of the mainstream 5w50 oil that meet API SM specs though. What a lot of you don't realize though is that a lot of 50wt oils are closer to a 40wt and a lot of 40wt oils are closer to either a heavey 30wt or a light 50wt so viscosity on the bottle isn't always entirely transparent which is why I stress sticking to API specs unless you know a lot about a specific oil.
I am sure there are typos, please forgive me as I just got off a 12 grave yard shift and am typing on an iPad.
1/15/12, 05:33 AM
#36
V6 Member
Join Date: January 4, 2012
Location: Houston
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My point is, proper maintenance has more to do with your truck and my dads truck going 250k plus miles than what oil brand was used.
1/15/12, 06:10 AM
#37
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 15, 2011
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1/15/12, 06:12 AM
#38
Bullitt Member
Join Date: July 15, 2011
Posts: 441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1/15/12, 06:29 AM
#39
Legacy TMS Member
I say run the weight oil that the car manufacture states to run but use what ever oil manufacturer's you want. Mobil 1, motorcraft, royal purple,amsoil ... And or god sake you don't need to change your oil every 3k miles. Shaun knows what he is talking about. If you don't believe him send your oil in or testing. Woot!
1/15/12, 08:34 AM
#40
Mach 1 Member
Join Date: August 1, 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 802
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.stangtv.com/event-coverag...ca-race-recap/