Jazzman442

Taking a late shot......

505

laserred38

I already texted you my two guesses: 552/476 or 532/460.

laserred38

But considering your low boost and conservative can tune, I'm going to say 502/420...

Getportfolio

562 is my guess

sakol

I'm going to say 527...

FromZto5

Ok ok ok... Drum roll!!!

Here's the results. However, let me caveat it by saying we did about 5 runs total, 3 in the first 10 mins or so because he had to "set up" and "synchronize" the software. So imo, I got pretty heat soaked there . Not sure if that was normal for you guys who have done it.

So after letting the engine run on idle for a bit, then shutting it off for a bit, I'd say 15 minutes of rest with fan on, we did the official 2 runs. I'm pretty sure I was soaked then too, sadly

The final numbers, are the "superflow" corrected numbers for the dyno itself... But from what he said and others, the Dynojet numbers should read a lot higher... By how much, I don't know.

470whp and 429torque. I would hope on a Dynojet I'm at 500, but who knows.

What was most impressive was the flat torque!!! I'm pretty much flat from 2500rpm onward. Flatness is good. I was still continuing to make power even at redline!!! So I think with a tune and possibly intake I should have made a lot more. And if I had more boost (smaller pulley) I think it would be more.

But for now, I am happy with my superflow #'s esp for being heat soaked on hot day (over 80 today) plus a tough, tough, dyno with heavy rollers

Here's some pics of arriving there, getting strapped on, and then the actual pull...

Thanks to everyone... For participating and helping me out. I'm not happy and not sad either... It is what it is. It's not like I can use all 470 or 500 hp at the wheels anyways...

Btw, with a 20% drivetrain loss, that puts me at 587hp at the crank. Not bad?

kcoTiger

I've never heard of a dyno needing to be synchronized prior to every run; the Mustang dyno down here simply needs to have the info entered and it runs the numbers from there. Sounds a bit odd.

The numbers sound about right; you should make closer to 500 with cooler air. Don't know if you'll get much more without some significant changes.

FromZto5

Yeah I was puzzled by that. I was a bit annoyed... We kept "going to 2k rpm, in 5th". Hold it there then accelerate to 100. Then he'd type something... Then ok, do the same thing now go to 110 then hold... Then he'd type something, then go to 120, etc. we did that like 4 times until 140. Weird. And then he said ok we will do the run now. I'm like... But I'm already heat soaked

So anyways... 470 on superflow, with heat soak. I would 500 or more on Dynojet with no heat soak. The other folks I've seen are at least 520 at the wheels on a Dynojet. Weird.

lime05

Still very respectable number. Plus she sounds nice!

kcoTiger

A lot of people who operate dynos for customers are simply dishonest. I'm not saying these people were, but the process you're describing shouldn't be necessary; if the dyno has never been used and the software hasn't been calibrated then I can understand, but I seriously doubt that's the case. A heat-soaked blower/engine will make smaller #'s on the dyno and they certainly know that; I don't suppose they offered any of their services to try and improve your #'s, did they? Tuning, parts, service, etc.? Regardless, I'd personally try and find another dyno to use for testing/tuning purposes.

I made 656 on my last recorded dyno run in 75° temps, and all I'd done is warm it up to operating temps. I could make 660 if I dropped the temp into the 60's, but beyond that the temp is too cold for the car/tires to operate well together. Keep in mind that the best measurements are those taken at expected operating temps. What they took yours in sounds about right, maybe you might wait for a day in the high 60's next time. Just make sure they don't heat your engine up before they dyno it next time.

That "torque tabletop" is why I will always prefer a SC over turbo. It's always there, always consistent.

laserred38

Dyno numbers are pretty much meaningless, as has been mentioned above. It's just a baseline. What you want to see is the delta between 470 and your next round of mods Besides, you didn't baseline your car (on THAT dyno) before the supercharger so who knows how much you really picked up...

houtex

Love that torque curve... so ono.

MJJ

So he did your pulls in 5th gear???

Burton, Check your text I sent you. I think your dyno operator is clueless.

For reference my 04 cobra did 481/504 on a superflow. You car should have sat and cooled for 30 min prior to going on the rollers.

FromZto5

Thanks man!!! Yeah 550 at the crank is not bad I guess.

Yeah I'm not sure what his intent was, but I was just puzzled by the number of iterations we did before we did the actual run. We rested for maybe 10 mins tops after the 4 trial runs, with the fan on, then went 2 more for score.

Agree. He did say that stock 5.0s were putting down 350-360 whp on his dyno.

Thanks... That is the one shining light of this experience.

Sean, yes, the pulls were done in 5th gear, for a 1:1 ratio. We definitely did NOT rest long at all.

So when I arrived there after driving for 20 minutes, I parked for maybe 15 minutes, then we backed her up onto the rollers. Then like I said we did 4 "setup runs" which were pretty much run in 5th gear to almost redline. Then we rested maybe 10 mins with 2 fans blowing on the car. Then ran 2 more times for score.

Somehow I get the feeling this isn't how it was supposed to go

Sean can you come meet me at Karl's for a dyno session next time? Jordan and Ryan said it was booked till at least 6/2.

Gabe

The set-up runs really sounds odd to me too.

Also, driveline loss for a modern manual is more like 13-15%, not 20%

Burton, I'd look for a Dynojet somewhere, even if you have to drive longer, just get there an hour before your appt time and let the car cool off with the hood up

As it is, it's a weird dyno session that I wouldn't trust anything from. Not the numbers, that's for sure.

If anything, I'd just make sure that the A/F ratio is good and that the tune is safe.

Also, the rear straps weren't all that tight in that video.
I wouldn't go back to that dyno.

Start looking for a CAI that will work with that blower, maybe a slightly smaller pulley and shorter belt, and see who knows the blower set-up enough to get you a good tune for it.

I love my JDM tune, by the way

ace72ace

Good luck to the OP getting the new blower tuned just right, should be an awesome ride once completed. However, this thread reminds me about the downfall of high performance/sports car owners and the Dyno.

One group of people will spend the money at a reputable shop to use this tool the right way, establish a stock or original baseline, and then check/verify mods and upgrades. Another group will spend lots of money in the never ending quest for higher numbers printed on a piece of paper. At the end of the day, I'm far more impressed with 1/8th and 1/4 mile time slips and lap times than an arbitrary number. But this 'magic number"' is what some owners quantify just how good their own car is, compared to others. To boil down the total value of your vehicle to how high the peak HP/TQ readings is lame.

I am not poking a stick at the OP, the numbers were posted for all to see and it's human nature to want the best you can get. I expected a sub 500 result as a guess but didn't vote in the poll as the OP already shared the results.

Maybe it's the all American desire to be the best/first/fastest/coolest ? Now there's nothing wrong with that per se, but when you observe the lengths people will go to for 'better numbers' you have to laugh. It's all a matter of perspective, and a healthy dose of reality. We all want mods and upgrades for better performance, but when you start adding hundreds of HP/TQ on top of what came from the factory, how much of that extra power can *safely* make it to the ground on the street or track? The rear wheel hop on my Boss is so bad now bone stock, I can't imagine what it would be like with another 100-150 TQ added...

The Dyno is a high tech ruler, and the space between the hash marks shrink or expand due to weather and vehicle variables. The accuracy of the final reading is the most important thing to me, so I'd rather choose a shop that has high quality equipment, an experienced owner/operator, and the ability to factor in what matters most. This is the real hard part. All the parts of the final number you get from a Dyno run can vary greatly. There's a reason why you get 2 or 3 pulls minimum to get the max performance peak reading.

Take for example the OP listing drivetrain loss at ~20%... I had heard 15% as a ballpark number somewhere, so I did a quick google search and found this quoted;

■FWD: 10-15% loss;
■RWD: 10-18% loss;
■AWD: 17-25% loss.

I liked this data because it's a range of values, not just a single percentage for each drivetrain type. I honestly have no idea what the real percentage of drivetrain loss is for a 6MT 5.0... Probably somewhere *between* 15-20% My guess is that the 18-20% range would be for 6AT cars.

So what's the point of getting a Dyno printout that shows you made 400HP in perfect weather and altitude conditions, but you regularly drive in much higher temps where you know if you did another Dyno run that the number would be lower? Are you going race someone on a closed road or track and then if you lose whip out your Dyno results and say that 'if it was cooler outside you would have won' ?

The coolest part about the day I went to the speed shop and got my run was that there was a Laguna Seca there who got 2 runs just before mine. We were both w/in 3HP of each other bone stock (I had alum DS but left my 3/4 exhaust plates in.. Doh). The owner told me that each is around +/- 3-4HP so it's a wash, but it was the Trackey results I liked. Ford states there is no gain using the red key, but for both of our red key runs, we each had exactly 8HP more over the stock tune. This was also confirmed by the shop owner that has Dyno-ed a lot of Boss Mustangs.

I had heard or read somewhere that the Coyote/Roadrunner engines were a little underrated from the factory, and wondered if it was true. I think the Boss was supposed to be around 460, and the 5.0 435 (2011/12), depending on the Dyno, some others even higher. After calculating loss at 15/16/17 percent, I'd have to agree that the Ford was a 'little conservative' with the factory ratings.

I hope that Dyno results are not overblown, and can keep perspective here on the quest for higher numbers.

FromZto5

Ace... I don't have a "never ending quest" for more hp. Period. And my Maggie is indeed "tuned just right", directly from Maggie for a nice conservative tune. I don't plan on making many changes, if at all. Just because I got a lower number than I expected from a weird dyno and dyno operator, doesn't mean I'll run off the end of bridge and start changing tunes, pulleys, etc.

I merely wanted to finally, for the first time ever in my limited automotive dreams, get on a dyno to see what hp and tq my car put down. I think you and a few others are reading FAR too much into this.

I got my results. Ok. It's done. Was it as high as I thought it would be? No. Ok so that means I'm going to have a never ending quest for more hp or I wanted to get dyno'd so I can beat my chest to the world? No. I could care less. The numbers were for me. And I wanted to involved buddies from this forum in a fun event. What's wrong with that?

Lol... I'm not going to start switching out my setup in hopes of getting better numbers.

I love my Maggie for its reliability, driveability, usability, and looks.

laserred38

This is good food for though. I touched on guess notions in my earlier post (and my texts to Burton since he was kinda bummed lol), but this is a much more comprehensive explanation.

Unless you dyno your car stock, and subsequently every time you add another performance enhancing mod, you really have no idea how much you gain.

lakeguy77

What a torque curve!

Thomas S

Burton, how was the a/f ratio? Any plans to take it to a dynojet?