G.T

happens to me everytime i try to shift at higher RPM.
no grinding at all.. and if i force the shifter in, it shifts fine.. also no grinding.
it just doesn't feel right.. and isn't always easy to force it :S

MdnytRider

Mine is an '08 GT, same as yours. And I meant the 2-3 shift in my original post (since corrected), so it sounds like we're both having the same issue. The only thing I've done is install a Hurst STS, but I'm going to put the stock shifter back in to see if it makes any difference. Let me know what the dealer says about yours.

Dixie_Flatline

I'm pretty sure the dealer isn't going to respond positively to it unless there's a specific TSB for it. Warrenty work without a known solution is probably a pretty heavy demotivator for them. On the other hand I received this reply in another forum:



I plan on bringing it to the dealer to document that there is an issue, so if the above quote proves to be what is the issue, then the dealer knows it was an issue from day one, not from my wear on the transmission.

Five Oh Brian

I searched all Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) for 2005-2008 Mustangs and found only one that relates to GT manual transmissions (very different from V6 or GT500 manual transmissions, so those do not apply to your GT's). This does not sound like the problem some of you are describing, but it is the only TSB I could find (I have access to all Ford service TSB's)...

TSB
05-15-2

• GROWL/GRINDING NOISE IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR DURING DECELERATION - TR3650 MANUAL TRANSMISSION - VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE 2/21/2005

Publication Date: July 13, 2005
FORD:
2005 Mustang


This article supersedes TSB 05-8-8 to update the vehicle build date information, the labor operation, and the note at the end of the article. ISSUE:

Some 2005 Mustang vehicles equipped with 4.6L engine and the TR3650 manual transmission built before 2/21/2005, may exhibit an intermittent raspy grinding noise while driving in 2nd and/or 3rd gear during deceleration. The noise may sound like a bearing growl, screech or scraping noise. Noise intensity may be light to medium, and is more likely to occur during the first few minutes of warm-up.
ACTION:

Order a synchronizer kit and a snap ring kit. Replace the reverse gear and synchronizer on the main shaft, and the associated snap rings. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 308-03B.

NOTE:METAL SHAVINGS, PARTICLES OR FLAKES FOUND ON THE TRANSMISSION MAGNET ARE NORMAL.

PART NUMBERPART NAME2R3Z-7124-CAReverse Gear And Synchronizer4R3Z-7109-AASnap Rings
WARRANTY STATUS:

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
OPERATIONDESCRIPTIONTIME051502A2005 Mustang TR3650: Install Reverse Gear Synchronizer Kit (Do Not Use With 7003A, 7003AZJ, 7003A2)5.5 Hrs.

Five Oh Brian

My 2003 Mach 1 had the Tremec 3650 5-speed manual in it. It was rebuilt under warranty as the 1-2 shift was very tough when the car was cold. Also, the 2-3 shift would hang up at high rpm's (most notable at the dragstrip at 7,000 rpm shifts, but also on the street). There was a TSB specifically that included my car so the dealership gladly fixed it under Ford's warranty.

Dixie_Flatline

Thanks for taking the time to look that up and post it Brian!

The 05-15-2 TSB isn't what I'm experiencing, though your experience with the '03 Mach 1 is close to it. I've noticed the shift into 3rd while the car is cold is a lot tougher than when warm.

I've no doubt they'll fix the transmission if there's a TSB for it, but until then it may be tough to get the dealer to 'find a problem' and I'm probably going to have to wait until it becomes a Real Identified Ford Problem (tm) ....

medieval

I take it you are asking radboss? Mine is an 07

scramblr

I have a thread or two about shifting at high RPMs. One day I just could not shift above 5500rpm. I tried everything, even swapping my Pro for an MGW, but no luck. My thoughts were the synchros were shot. Took the tranny apart and everything looked good...except the clutch, it was fried. Replaced it with a Centerforce and alum f/w and all is great now. I can shift at 6500rpm with zero problems. I probably won't need to reinstall the CHE T/Ls, although I'll probably try it out for the heck of it.

Dixie_Flatline

Awesome news - glad to hear you found the solution to that! I've heard on other forums that some aftermarket clutches can require strong left legs - how does it feel compared to stock?

Yeah, this is an old thread, but I just bought my 'stang and it fits this description so I'm trying to carry to carry the torch and get to the bottom of this. Since this is apparently more than a single occurance, hopefully there's some common recourse with warranty.


The thing I'm encountering, and MdnytRider and others I'm assuming, is the shift into certain gears at normal RPMs. The shifter and clutch work awesome for me on all shifts up and down except from 2-3 in all RPM ranges, from 1,750 - 4,500 from my experience. I haven't driven above 4,500 that often yet.... going into 3rd above 5k exceeds all the local speed limits as it is.

If the shift from 2-3 worked like all the other shifts, this car would feel like an incredibly fast version of my old '04 BMW Z4, and that's saying a lot for a sub $30k Ford (I gotta get the brake upgrade though).

metroplex

I dumped out the factory ATF and used 3 qt of Redline High-Temp ATF (Synthetic Mercon ATF). At first the tranny felt a bit better, and after 4000 miles, I can use 2 fingers to shift gears without any problems. Downshifting, upshifting, going from 1-5 or 5-3, etc... was not a problem.

I actually used slightly less than 3 qt (probably 2.8-2.9 qt) due to the hand pump retaining some ATF inside of the lines. The spec calls for slightly more than 3 qt, but I was not going to spend an extra $8 just to use a few drops. I do recall that adding TOO MUCH ATF will cause shifting problems, whereas I have not heard anything bad about using slightly less than the required amount of ATF.

I did notice that 08s now specify the use of Mercon-V. Most Mercon-V formulations ARE backwards compatible with Mercon. Mercon-V is only slightly more friction modified than Mercon, and the biggest change in formulation is that Mercon-V is generally a synthetic blend or a synthetic.

mhpj60

i have a 05 i just bought the guy i purchased it from told me he put a stage 3 clutch in it. it is hard to shift and will not shift when you get the rpm up to 3500 untill the rpms come back down. and it grind when trying to put it into 3rd. the clutch also releases around 2 inches from the floor. if you get on it hard and push the clutch in and let off the gas its like you didnt push the clutch in. any ideas

cdynaco

Sounds like a clutch adjustment would help. Plenty of brake/clutch fluid?

Some of the TR3650's had synchro issues with 3rd. Search should pull up some older threads.

If he put a beefed up clutch in it had may have ran it pretty hard. To be safe you could change trans fluid (factory fluid is fine - be sure not to overfill - the level is 1/2" BELOW the bottom of the fill hole).

Its possible the trans mounts are shot. You should check those.

Also the 05 shifter wasn't the best or so I've read. You might consider some of the aftermarket shifters. Seems like MGW is highly recommended.

Also, this may help prevent engine torque from hindering your shifting:

http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-284.htm

muscledom

I find the 3650 to just be a hard shifting tranny. Whenever I'm driving hard I make it a point to try to rip the shifter out of the car, problem solved. I used to grind 2nd alot because it was like I hit a wall and it was too late because I was already almost all the way off the clutch. Show that shifter who's boss lol

corny

Hey so I have a 2006 mustang Gt 5 speed Manuel and I have a hard time shifting into 2nd when going at high rpm at low rpm it shifts perfectly fine not sure what I should look for first , any ideas?

houtex

Replace the transmission with a T-56 Magnum XL kit. Solves it all, except gear ratios, they'll not be great, but hey, you'll shift.

Or get thee a Powerglide and be done with it.

Or, if you simply *must* have the transmission that's in the car... it's sort of a thing. It's a three internal rail shifter, which is problem one. It's a remote shifter mount, which is problem two. Those combined with tired bushings of the shifter, and the car twisting up as the engine tries to leap out of the engine bay, causes alignment issues with the shifting between any of the gears, but especially the 1-2 and not-uncommonly 2-3 shifts.

You'd want to inspect the engine mounts, the transmission mounts, and the shifter mounts and bushings. You may want to exchange the shifter and mounts for something better. I understand the Blowfish bracket (no longer available) and the MGW shifter is the combo, but I'm still at 186K runnin' the original stuff, so... Still, a better shifter situation may fix the entire thing.

You can also swap out the fluid (I'm currently on Mobil 1 ATF, but others speak (and I've tried as well) the original Mercon V, Royal Purple Synchromax, and the Pennzoil/GM Syncrhomesh, and then there's Amsoil and Redline that I've not tried, and then others still I'll not list because Reasons(tm)). It may or may not help long term, but the new stuff will certainly make some difference nonetheless. Remember to goldilocks fill, not too much, not not enough, JUUUUUST right. It actually is that kind of finicky.

Finally, temperature enters the picture, and the TR-3650 is a real fun one when cold. Get that fluid warmed and it works better on shifting.

For what all that's worth. I think I might have missed somethin', not sure, but there ya go. Good luck!

And belated welcome to the forum!

tbear853

It seams harder because in shortening the throw, the short throw shifter took away some leverage. One is still doing the same work of rowing gears, but the handle on the spoon is shorter. Like you usually use a 18" long lug wrench, but today we will limit you to a 6# long wrench, same lug nuts to be installed.
I made a set of lever extensions that raise my Hurst shifter lever a good 2", the top bolt is still hidden under the boot. I like the placement, the throw is still shorter than stock a bunch, and out of the way of my cup holder holding a cup, and way easier. My first cars with 4 speeds had long throw Hurst Competion Plus shifters, only the "Super Shifter"s had such short throws. We did OK. A lot of the notchiness felt between gears of the GTs is the ball detents holding shift rails in positions.
I know, old post ... but


Another thread I enjoyed here:
Manual transmission fluid change / Clutch info - The Mustang Source - Ford Mustang Forums

05stangkc

We Have Toned Down The Old Necropost Shaming Quite a Bit Here in the Last Couple O Months! You Go Right Ahead and Post Away!

KC

tbear853

Well, I'd still like to butter the TR-3650 up some more, Wife says the car is a keeper. I am doing well after a life interuption, still have those brass bushings to try in place of the plastic too.

05stangkc

Well That Makes Her a Keeper!

Life Interuption! I understand! I was Out for 10+ Years on TMS!

KC