Traction Control Auto Off Mod
1/2/08, 07:05 PM
#1
Traction Control Auto Off Mod
This Mod installs a relay circuit that turns Traction control OFF when you start
your car. Why? With a modified super charged car the Ford TCS can pull fuel
under boost and can lean your motor into damage. Tuners can turn TCS OFF as a default but
you can't turn it back on. Some also give your info center constant errors...
Thus this relay mod. It also leaves TCS fully operable; push the button and it's back on.
Limitations of the Mod.
If your car won't start, each time you go from Run to Start, TCS will change status.
If you turn the key to Accessory, then turn TCS OFF. Then start your car and TCS will be back on. ( you had to work for that one )
Highlights:
Circuit is cold except when key is in start. Easy wiring. Cheap.
Traction control system is not disabled.
Correcting the start logic problems quickly got complicated and expensive. I felt it wasn't worth it. Anytime you go from off to start the logic will be correct. The TCS button still functions. If you've had a bad start just push the button if the status is not right.
That being said, if you start your car properly, TCS will be off.
Items needed: 12V relay, 2 wire splices, Wire, 4 mounting lugs for the relay.
Larger pdf drawing attached
Not wanting to re-invent the wheel I copied TacoBill's tutorial on how to get to the center console.
Thanks Bill!
Unscrew the shift **** by grasping right below the silver washer at the base of the ****
(otherwise the whole boot will start to twist).
Once unscrewed, lift up the boot trim ring (it un-snaps pretty easily).
Remove the ****/boot assembly and set aside.
Remove the 2 screws at the base of the center armrest.
From here on out, use care when dealing with all the plastic stuff to avoid scratches,
cracks, etc. Lift up the forward section of the console where the shifter is.
Then unsnap the rear section where the cup holders are.
Carefully lift the center armrest console out. Raising the e-brake as high as it will go will help.
As you see in the pic, I placed a rag at the forward section of the console to avoid scratching.
Once the armrest console is out, its time to remove both left and right sail panels adjacent
to the center console. Simply grasp the lower section and pull straight back toward the rear.
This part is a bit of a pain unplug the 2 wiring harnesses that are behind the A/C and rear
defroster switches. Tip: The plug behind the defroster has a gray lever. A release button must be
depressed before attempting to raise (or lower - in some models it's installed upside down. see photos)
the gray lever all the way up to release the plug.
The A/C has a release button only.
Just to make us nuts some models have the connector installed upside down.
Remove the (6) 7mm bolts (3 each side) that holds the center console to the dash. I removed
my GT 12V plug too; not sure if I needed to, but it was simple enough.
Carefully pull away the center console from the dash (you can leave the A/C ***** on).
Note the center tab on the console thats under the dash.
Unplug the 3 wiring harnesses from the top of the console,
they're all push button release type.
Finally, the (4) bolts that secure the Shaker head unit can now be accessed. They are also
7mm bolts, same as the other (6) removed earlier.
Edit: Willie suggested using fuse 20 in the passenger side foot well Smart
Junction Box if you don't want to dig behind the radio. Fuse 20 is the other end of the
RED/BLK Radio wire this will go to Terminal (85) on the relay. Some have placed the relay
here in the foot well and only run a single wire to the TCS Switch. Thanks Willie!
Add the wire with an Mini Add a Fuse.
If you didn't run the wire as above.
Pull the Radio unit forward, reach in back and release the large power connector.
The release tab is located in the center of the connector. Press down and pull back.
On the back of the connector find the and Red/Blk ( Hot in start only ).
Using a quick tap connector splice the RED/BLK (START)
this wire will go to Terminal (85) on the relay.
Moving to the wires on the TCS switch (passenger side).
On the back of the TCS switch connector,using a quick tap connector, splice the WHT/PNK (TCS Signal)
This wire will go to terminal (30) on the relay.
Route wires to exit in passenger footwell.
Loosen large bolt to the right of bracket and use as grounding point, black wire.
Tighten bolt back down.
Attach wires to relay as follows.
Terminals (86) & (87) On Relay to Ground ( I daisy chained (86) & (87) )
Terminal (85) to Radio RED/BLK (Car in Start) (Or Add a fuse @ 20 SJB)
Terminal (30) to TCS Switch WHT/PNK (TCS Signal)
(I know it looks like it says 87 over the blue wire... look at the next photo)
Make everything neat.
Reconnect Radio connector and reinstall head unit.
Reinstall screws in head unit.
Bring center console up, reconnect Info center, power port, and TCS plugs
Put center console in place reconnect A/C and rear defroster switches.
Now when you start your car, TCS off will be lit. A push of the button and it's back in service.
your car. Why? With a modified super charged car the Ford TCS can pull fuel
under boost and can lean your motor into damage. Tuners can turn TCS OFF as a default but
you can't turn it back on. Some also give your info center constant errors...
Thus this relay mod. It also leaves TCS fully operable; push the button and it's back on.
Limitations of the Mod.
If your car won't start, each time you go from Run to Start, TCS will change status.
If you turn the key to Accessory, then turn TCS OFF. Then start your car and TCS will be back on. ( you had to work for that one )
Highlights:
Circuit is cold except when key is in start. Easy wiring. Cheap.
Traction control system is not disabled.
Correcting the start logic problems quickly got complicated and expensive. I felt it wasn't worth it. Anytime you go from off to start the logic will be correct. The TCS button still functions. If you've had a bad start just push the button if the status is not right.
That being said, if you start your car properly, TCS will be off.
Items needed: 12V relay, 2 wire splices, Wire, 4 mounting lugs for the relay.
Larger pdf drawing attached
Not wanting to re-invent the wheel I copied TacoBill's tutorial on how to get to the center console.
Thanks Bill!
Unscrew the shift **** by grasping right below the silver washer at the base of the ****
(otherwise the whole boot will start to twist).
Once unscrewed, lift up the boot trim ring (it un-snaps pretty easily).
Remove the ****/boot assembly and set aside.
Remove the 2 screws at the base of the center armrest.
From here on out, use care when dealing with all the plastic stuff to avoid scratches,
cracks, etc. Lift up the forward section of the console where the shifter is.
Then unsnap the rear section where the cup holders are.
Carefully lift the center armrest console out. Raising the e-brake as high as it will go will help.
As you see in the pic, I placed a rag at the forward section of the console to avoid scratching.
Once the armrest console is out, its time to remove both left and right sail panels adjacent
to the center console. Simply grasp the lower section and pull straight back toward the rear.
This part is a bit of a pain unplug the 2 wiring harnesses that are behind the A/C and rear
defroster switches. Tip: The plug behind the defroster has a gray lever. A release button must be
depressed before attempting to raise (or lower - in some models it's installed upside down. see photos)
the gray lever all the way up to release the plug.
The A/C has a release button only.
Just to make us nuts some models have the connector installed upside down.
Remove the (6) 7mm bolts (3 each side) that holds the center console to the dash. I removed
my GT 12V plug too; not sure if I needed to, but it was simple enough.
Carefully pull away the center console from the dash (you can leave the A/C ***** on).
Note the center tab on the console thats under the dash.
Unplug the 3 wiring harnesses from the top of the console,
they're all push button release type.
Finally, the (4) bolts that secure the Shaker head unit can now be accessed. They are also
7mm bolts, same as the other (6) removed earlier.
Edit: Willie suggested using fuse 20 in the passenger side foot well Smart
Junction Box if you don't want to dig behind the radio. Fuse 20 is the other end of the
RED/BLK Radio wire this will go to Terminal (85) on the relay. Some have placed the relay
here in the foot well and only run a single wire to the TCS Switch. Thanks Willie!
Add the wire with an Mini Add a Fuse.
If you didn't run the wire as above.
Pull the Radio unit forward, reach in back and release the large power connector.
The release tab is located in the center of the connector. Press down and pull back.
On the back of the connector find the and Red/Blk ( Hot in start only ).
Using a quick tap connector splice the RED/BLK (START)
this wire will go to Terminal (85) on the relay.
Moving to the wires on the TCS switch (passenger side).
On the back of the TCS switch connector,using a quick tap connector, splice the WHT/PNK (TCS Signal)
This wire will go to terminal (30) on the relay.
Route wires to exit in passenger footwell.
Loosen large bolt to the right of bracket and use as grounding point, black wire.
Tighten bolt back down.
Attach wires to relay as follows.
Terminals (86) & (87) On Relay to Ground ( I daisy chained (86) & (87) )
Terminal (85) to Radio RED/BLK (Car in Start) (Or Add a fuse @ 20 SJB)
Terminal (30) to TCS Switch WHT/PNK (TCS Signal)
(I know it looks like it says 87 over the blue wire... look at the next photo)
Make everything neat.
Reconnect Radio connector and reinstall head unit.
Reinstall screws in head unit.
Bring center console up, reconnect Info center, power port, and TCS plugs
Put center console in place reconnect A/C and rear defroster switches.
Now when you start your car, TCS off will be lit. A push of the button and it's back in service.
Last edited by Steved; 1/4/14 at 08:34 AM. Reason: update links
The following users liked this post:
crjackson (3/26/24)
1/2/08, 07:11 PM
#2
Steve any part numbers on that relay and where to aquire it?
1/2/08, 07:24 PM
#4
AutoZone first one I saw...... I think it was rated for 30 amps.... smashing a gnat with a bulldozer.. but it was 5 bucks.... only in use for the 3 or 4 seconds it takes to start the car..... I'm sure there are better choices...
Maybe he meant "on". 
1/3/08, 08:36 AM
#12
GTR Member
Join Date: October 2, 2006
Location: Southeast Michigan
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Nice write-up!
However, to keep things even simpler, just remember to push Traction Control OFF when you want to push the car especially since it has a blower. Alternatively, don't drive the supercharged car in bad weather.
However, to keep things even simpler, just remember to push Traction Control OFF when you want to push the car especially since it has a blower. Alternatively, don't drive the supercharged car in bad weather.
1/3/08, 08:37 AM
#13
Team Mustang Source
Fantastic write up mate! I have my TC disabled via the Predator tuner and the message center shows "Check Traction Control" when I first start the car so I have hit the reset button on the dash to clear it. Of course, DiabloSport is totally unresponsive when asked about it...what ever. I do like this mod though, but wow having to take the car apart to do it cleanly....ugh. Still though, a great mod and excellent write up.
1/3/08, 03:28 PM
#18
Team Mustang Source
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1/3/08, 03:47 PM
#19
Bullitt Member
Join Date: October 29, 2006
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Quick question. You say under boost and TCS kicks in, the engine my run lean. When the TCS kicks in, does the engine not only cut fuel, but also reduces air intake by closing the throttle body? The same as the gas pedal pulsing on older cars with TCS. So how does the engine run lean? Im just trying to figure this out..
