randy_tho

I've installed koni shocks and steeda sport springs and am to the point now where I want to string the car to get the alignment roughed in good before getting it to a shop.

I see the indicators on the strut mounts and initially put them as close to the middle of the holes as I could eyeball. The car appears with just slightly more negative camber than stock by using a weighted plumb line hanging from the fender.

It appears that the mounts require wheel removal to adjust. Am I doing something wrong here? If I loosen the bolts the mount is forced outward by the pressure of the wheel.

randy_tho

So I have the wheel off now and the mount still seems stuck. I made sure to align the steeda logo to the outside of the car like the installation requires. It is actually kind of binded slightly forward.

I would think that the suspension should drop down enough that the strut mount bolts would actually drop down some but they are not falling at all.

randy_tho

So. Um. For the record, BOTH wheels need to be off the ground and things are smooth as silk. I jacked up one side thinking I could just set it there being independent suspension and all. Wrong! Thought about the weight of the wheel so I pulled it and no change. Apparently all the suspension components leaning to the side is enough weight to upset the mounts adjustment plate.

PTRocks

When only one front wheel is on the ground, the front sway bar is putting load on the wheel in the air.

crescent_wrench

subscribed. Would love to know more on this.

randy_tho

Yup. I originally figured the end links had enough play to not make a difference but nope.

The measurements after modification and with the mount indicators roughly 2/3 in are camber L -0.01 and R -0.03. Toe is at 0 with L -.06 and R .06. Stock measured camber was L -.01 and R -.02. Stock toe at .04 with angle L .03 and R .01.

I followed the conventions in this but used a level and tape measure instead of a modified level and caliper.
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam14...alignment.html

randy_tho

Anything in particular?

crescent_wrench

Mine go on tomorrow along with steeda sports and Koni yellows. Desperately trying to better understand suspension 101. Want this car to handle like its on rails.

randy_tho

I see. From what I can tell the shocks/springs and possibly the panhard/brace are the best bang for the buck. From there you need to consider tires and then if you need to go further the sway and end braces/links.

I've been driving the car and it holds straight and no vibrations. I think I still should take it to a good alignment shop and get the optimum dialed in.

The camber adjustment alone will make a world of difference. Mine is a daily driver and I put 500 miles a week on it so I don't want to shred through tires.

crescent_wrench

Good lord what a difference!!!!!! For those who have a stock GT suspension.....well, you are missing out on utopia. This thing handles so much better. For the money spent, can't recommend enough.

RRRoamer

If you don't mind me asking, specifically, what have you noticed that is an improvement over stock? "handles so much better" if fairly vague.

randy_tho

I did the Koni STR.T (orange) and steeda sport along with the steeda bar and brace and I can't say it was more than I expected. The car stays more level all around. You don't get the 8" rise in the front end under accel and you don't get nose dive during a sudden brake. Body roll in curves is reduced to the point the seats start becoming the limiting factor. lol.

Practically I can tell during a sudden brake from 65 to like 45 on the interstate the car feels much more in control. if you need to get some speed going then you can without much drama. (Except the exhaust.)

Oh and I should mention that my self alignment may be a little too neutral. It could probably stand to be more aggressive.

crescent_wrench

A little late here...sorry. Doesn't feel like a boat, floating high on the water anymore. Also, front end doesn't rise up anymore under hard acceleration. Under hard braking, doesn't nose-dive anymore. Also takes a "set" now in curves, especially curves with up and down transitions. Car feels planted now. I've ridden in stock S197's since modding mine and they feel out of control in the curves. In the spring i'll upgrade the wheels and tires....as well as add adjustable sways, and panhard bar.

sam strano

*ding* WINNER!

sam strano

Basically.... what you get with a setup like that (cresent_wrench has a combination I supplied him with) is something that is easily mistaken for a german car that says BMW M on it.

If you guys go watch that video of the M3 vs. the Mustang you'll see how much composed the M3 in terms of not wallowing around. It's even mentioned in the article--well that's what we are fixing!

cdynaco

Me too. I need a suspension for (geometry) dummies.

Bennyandthejets

I don't know about you guys but my Ford Racing suspension did all of the above but also changed the handling bias from ridiculous understeer to moderate oversteer. Fun to drive factor went through the roof. This was my favorite part of the upgrade.

Parts: Foose FR Handling pack, Edelbrock track bar, Edelbrock STB, Caster Bolts

crescent_wrench

Bet the rear sway bar change has alot to do with that.

66COUP

To adjust the camber with the Steeda HD mounts, do you just loosen the 4 strut bolts with the front end lifted and move the top of the strut in/out when standing by the wheel? With the Steeda Ultralite springs and Koni STR.T struts I am at -1.7 L and -1.8 R. I want to be around -.75 to -1, however, there is no adjustable movement at the top of the strut with my Steeda HD mounts. On the fox bodies you could easily move the strut around when the caster/camber plates are loosened up. I am pretty sure I installed the mounts correctly, the Steeda logo points to the outside of the fender. Any ideas?

randy_tho

Yeah, you should be able to use your thumb to move the strut "spindle" in and out. Mine would actually fall one direction without support. Make sure your suspension is unloaded completely. (IE both wheels in the air able to free spin.) You should see the triangle point indicator through the holes in the cars body/frame as you look down on the top of the strut. If it's not moving, did you tighten the strut mount nut enough on the strut's shaft? I believe it should basically bottom out??? (But don't over-tighten.) Perhaps the spring hasn't been compressed enough so the assembly is not loose enough (still in a bind) to move.