GT Performance Mods2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information
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I'm installing my Steeda UDPs right now and have run in to a road block.
I CAN'T GET THE HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT OFF!!!
I pulled the electric fan housing so I have plenty of room. Impact gun just flails away. 1/2 breaker bar makes the engine creak but does nothing to the bolt.
QUESTIONS:
1) Is the harmonic balancer bolt REVERSE THREADED? I'm going COUNTER CLOCKWISE. (the normal way to loosen a bolt) The Steeda pilot bolt looks like a normally threaded bolt.
2) Can I damage something? I have a stick shift. Currently car is on the ground, ebrake engaged, trans is in second gear.
My next plan is to put a jack handle over the breaker bar and flog on the bolt that way but I don't want to damage something.
HELP! I don't want to tuck my tail between my legs in defeat, I want to finish this NOW.
__________________ 2005 Mustang GT 5spd Premium Convertible (with 18" Fanblades and Shaker 1000!) Performance Mods: C&L Trueflow CAI and Bamachips XCal2 91 Torque, Flowmaster ATs, Steeda UDPs, FRPP strut tower brace, MGW shifter. Other Mods: Saleen HID headlights, Phillips HID Fog Lights, GT500 spoiler, GT/CS scoops, CDC Chin Spoiler and Detail Corral, Gentex compass/temp/Homelink, Webelectric Pony Corral & Sequential Tail Lights, OEM glovebox trunk release, clear turn signals, MRT Hood Struts, APC LED 3rd Brake Light, 30% Formula One tint, interior bling parts. Future Mods: None, I'm good.
sometimes there just like that. You need a bigger breaker bar. I used to use a super long breaker bar and actually have someone crank the engine if you can believe that, not really crank, just bump it real quick to get it to turn. then take off normal. But if your scared of that and that you might hurt yourself or the car. Then just find a bigger breaker bar, you can do this also by using a long pipe that will fit over the breaker bar etc. If you have a long pipe of some kind it will be super easy to just bump it, just make sure your on the right side of rotation. Good luck leverage is the key,the longer the better they always say, LOL.
__________________ 06 GT Auto Redfire,Redfire Engine Cover,ICAP,IUP,Active Alarm,Shaker 500,Sirius Sat,18"Pol. Bullits,Ford Racing Frt&Rear Sway Bars,3.73 Gears,Sh. Pads,8.8 Rear End Girdle,Chrome Lic. Plates,Borla axlebacks w/4" tips,SHR Pol. GT Fuel Door,GT Rear Medallion,Chromed GT Cup Bezel,GT Auto Shifter Bezel,GT E-Brake Handle,SHR Redfire 1/4 window louvers,Roush front fascia w/fogs and chin spoiler,STOPTECH Cross-Drilled Rotors Frt&Rear,C&L Racer CAI,SCT X2Bamachips 93 dyno'd custom Race Tune,BMR Strut Tower Brace,DCF Billet Upper and Lower Grill Inserts,Viper Remote Start,8" Ant,Web Electric Sequentials,Ultimate Pedals with pony logos,Painted 10" ss stripes,Mustang> Script,Grand Design Custom ICAP Trunk Lid Mat w/ss pony,MWAG redfire Rad. Ext. MGW Chromed radio *****,a/c, andGT power plug *****, coat hooks,door lock *****.
Really though get a big breaker bar and go at it forcefully but smoothly- don't round-off the bolt!
__________________ tom281
Live by The Sword, die by The Sword.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tukatz
Lost in the shuffle in all this is the insanity of the Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards imposed by a bunch of bureaucrats who rely on 'promote the general welfare.' If you thought 7,000 RPM was a lot you should see the speed at which our founding fathers are spinning in their graves.
I ran into the same thing, no air gun would loose it. I finally put the Breaker bar on it and the top half of my floor jack handle and pulled and bang it came loose.
__________________
dly........07 Black GT/California Special
2010 Flame Blue Raptor
2013 Blue Candy Focus Titaninm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom281
blah blah blah :devil:
Quote:
Originally Posted by 70MACH1OWNER
Hey Darrell
What about your butt???:dunno:
As quoted by DaTT(1sK) 2k7....your car collection makes me feel funny in my front parts.
for now. I put a 4' jack handle on my 1/2" breaker bar and whaled away! The belt started stretching really bad so I pulled it.
Bad move.
Like I said earlier, the car is in 2nd gear, all four wheels on the ground. Ebrake firmly set. When I started whaling away with my "4 foot breaker bar" I could hear ominous creaking noises coming from under the car, and the engine kept turning backwards. While I was struggling with it I heard a metallic CLACK occur from somewhere around the center of the car. Not sure what it was, could it be the clutch?
At that point I gave up.
Does anyone have suggestions as far as penetrating oil, maybe something to immobilize the engine so I don't destroy my drive train? I'm at a loss. Between the failure of my impact gun (full size, 90 psi, max setting) and my large "breaker bar" I don't know what else to do.
Help!
__________________ 2005 Mustang GT 5spd Premium Convertible (with 18" Fanblades and Shaker 1000!) Performance Mods: C&L Trueflow CAI and Bamachips XCal2 91 Torque, Flowmaster ATs, Steeda UDPs, FRPP strut tower brace, MGW shifter. Other Mods: Saleen HID headlights, Phillips HID Fog Lights, GT500 spoiler, GT/CS scoops, CDC Chin Spoiler and Detail Corral, Gentex compass/temp/Homelink, Webelectric Pony Corral & Sequential Tail Lights, OEM glovebox trunk release, clear turn signals, MRT Hood Struts, APC LED 3rd Brake Light, 30% Formula One tint, interior bling parts. Future Mods: None, I'm good.
Man...that's a bummer that it's being so stubborn. My only suggestion woud be to put the tranny in 4th or 5th...by having it in second it's applying much more torque through the tranny to the drivetrain than it would be in 4th or 5th. Putting it in 4th or 5th would make the engine harder to spin, thus hopefully allowing you to loosen the bolt instead of having the engine turn (and the car try to move).
Best of luck!!
__________________
RailRay
2005 Mustang GT Coupe Premium
Torch Red w/Dk. Charcoal Interior, 5-Speed Manual, IUP, Side Air Bags, Active Anti-Theft, Bullitts
Mods: WMS 95mm CAI w/Ram Air Box, Bama Chips 93 Octane Race Tune, Magnaflow Catbacks, Hurst Shifter, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Hawk HPS Pads, Nitto NT555 Extreme Performance 255/50ZR17, PIE AUX adapter for external audio input to radio
Ordered 11/20/04, Picked up 01/20/05
Man that stinks, maybe spray it with a good penetrator and let it sit for a couple of hours. I don't know of any other tricks- mine was stubborn and the car kept wanting to creep forward too even with the e-brake on and the car in gear- but I kept at it and got it loose eventually.
GOOD LUCK!
__________________ tom281
Live by The Sword, die by The Sword.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tukatz
Lost in the shuffle in all this is the insanity of the Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards imposed by a bunch of bureaucrats who rely on 'promote the general welfare.' If you thought 7,000 RPM was a lot you should see the speed at which our founding fathers are spinning in their graves.
Man you guys! are freaking me out!....I got a set of steeda UD's I plan on installing next week!.......Well maybe?............PS: did you try chocking your wheels!!
__________________
2006 Black GT Coupe Premium Auto, ICAP Crimson Red, IPU Satin Aluminum. Build date 06/02/06.
Performance, SCT Xcalibrator 2, C&L Polished Street CAI, Brenspeed 93 tune with the 70MACH1OWNER, Phase 1 Auto OD Mod, Steeda CMCV DP's, Steeda UDP's, Steeda Shorty Headers, Prothane HP motor mounts, Shaftmaster 4'' Aluminum drive shaft, FRPP (M-523005-GT) axlebacks, Chrome 18x9 FR500 wheels, Tires 255/45ZR1899W Riken/Raptors, RP 5w20 and FRPP oil Filter
Suspension, Saleen Racecraft Springs, Tokico HP Dampers, J&M Adjustable upper Strut Mounts, J&M Adjustable aluminum Pan Hard Bar, J&M street LCA's, J&M LCA relocation brackets, J&M Adj UCA, Steeda X-5 ball joints, Steeda Bumpsteer kit, Steeda G trac Brace.
Ascetics, CDC chin spoiler, CDC Billet Grille with Tri bar pony, CDC hood pins, Roush Hood scoop, Roush 1/4 window louvers, Roush rear Spoiler, M&M Sequential turn signals
Man you guys! are freaking me out!....I got a set of steeda UD's I plan on installing next week!.......Well maybe?............PS: did you try chocking your wheels!!
Don't worry STD, you're only a state away we can hook up if we need to!
__________________ tom281
Live by The Sword, die by The Sword.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tukatz
Lost in the shuffle in all this is the insanity of the Corporate Average Fuel Economy standards imposed by a bunch of bureaucrats who rely on 'promote the general welfare.' If you thought 7,000 RPM was a lot you should see the speed at which our founding fathers are spinning in their graves.
I had the same problem. I went to sears and "bought"/borrowed a more powerful air impact gun. I took a while, just press the trigger and hold it in. Eventually, she'll give. It only took about 2 minutes.
When I was done, I took the gun back to sears and they took it back. Wow, it was like a free rental.
When you put the UDPs on, make sure you grind the bolt on the alternator, otherwise, it will rip your belt to shreds.
Here's a link to my write up on changing the UDPs. I made a lot of mistakes and documented them all so other would learn from my errors.
A good half inch beaker bar with a cheater should get you there. Take your vitamins first. Using the drive train for backup requires a lot of room to accommodate the movement as everything winds up. Use a six point socket! Get in a position where you can get you foot against the bar ... have a assistant help keep everything straight.
__________________
05 Mustang GT
69 BOSS 302
87 Merkur XR4Ti (w/Cosworth body kit and suspension)
No, J/K, they're really a pain in the ***. I would use some 2+2 and let it sit for a while. There's not much corrosion around it (especially on a 05+) but that will just help lubricate it a little. I also agree with 4th or 5th gear.
If all else fails... isn't there a plug on these transmissions like 2v 4.6L Mustangs and F150's where you can shove a wrench in it to hold it from turning? I've never had to go that far on a new Mustang, only stubborn 97-03 F150's.
Chris
__________________ Tillman Speed Inc.
3344 Market Street • Suite C • Aston, PA 19014 Sales: (610)497-5776 or (610)497-3736 PREMIER DEALER: Edelbrock E-Force Supercharger Systems and Kooks Custom Headers - WE MATCH / BEAT PRICES!!!
Your Remote Custom Tuning Experts! Supercharged? Cammed? Nitrous? No problem! We remote custom tune just like you're on our dyno! Contact Chris Rose for more details or references.
When I did mine I also had to go to the shop and get a longer pipe to make a longer breaker bar. I couldn't do it with an 18 incher.
__________________ 2005 Performance White GT Vert Parchment leather interior, side airbags, premium machined 17 inch wheels, shaker 500, IUP dash upgrade, automatic transmission. Ordered on 1/8/05 and arrived on 3/18/05
A bunch more mods than I'm allowed to post. :-) I hate limits!
Be very careful using heat. If you didn't know the stock harmonic balancer has rubber bonded between the inner and outer hubs. Not to mention if you get the snout of the crank to hot you could damage your front main seal.
Scott
__________________ 2005 Performance White GT Vert Parchment leather interior, side airbags, premium machined 17 inch wheels, shaker 500, IUP dash upgrade, automatic transmission. Ordered on 1/8/05 and arrived on 3/18/05
A bunch more mods than I'm allowed to post. :-) I hate limits!
Add some air tool oil to your gun and make sure the pressure is all the way up. If this does not work, you can use a small amount of heat as mentioned above. Only apply heat to the head of the bolt. It doesn't take much.
__________________
<span style=\"color:green\">2005 Silver GT, 5 spd, Premium, Red leather interior.</span>[color=blue]
Mods, JBA Longtube headers, Prothane motormounts, Hurst shifter, Mustangtuning 18x9, 18x10 Deeps with Nitto 555 255/45ZR18 and 295/45ZR18, NOS Nitrous, Flowmaster axle backs, C&L CAI, SCT2 with BamaChips tune, Steeda UD pulleys, Steeda springs, BMR adjustable panhard bar, Trickflow diff. cover, Innovate LC-1/XD-1 wideband, Sirius.
Big Blue
Midnight Gambler
....PS: did you try chocking your wheels!!
Linear Mode
