nonsensez9

ok, so I took my car in to have line-locks installed. Get a call back about a half hour later, guy says he's not comfortable installing the locks, what with ABS and everything, yada, yada, yada. So it looks like I'll be doing it myself.

Sooooo... does anyone have a complete list of tools, fittings, etc. that I'll need to do the job?

secondly, I'm thinking of using the electrical outlet in the center console as a power source. This allows me to easily disconnect power completely in addition to cutting down on the wiring. Question... which is the +'ve, the center or the sides?

don_w

There are a few ways to do this... I'm sure others might provide their input as well. But here is how I ended up doing it.

I used two of the Summit line lock solenoids. And since I had difficulty finding the correct fittings locally, I ended up getting two of the Summit Line Lock Installation Kits. As far as tools, I needed a tubing bender and a double-flaring tool. I also used a standard automotive relay (from Radio Shack) and wired it like this:

Pin #30 goes to a 15 amp fuse the other end of the fuse goes to the battery.
Pin #87 goes to the solenoids with a 15A inline fuse.
Pin #86 goes to switched power.
Pin #85 goes to one prong of the safety switch. Another prong on the switch goes to ground.

Here are some pics of the solenoids in the fenderwells, switch (the front switch is for the line locks) and where I tapped for power.

Hope this helps...











This pic shows where I got power (both switched and constant). I used the "Add-a-Circuit" things. Slots "A" and "C" are switched power, and slot "B" is constant 12V power (battery).

dustindu4

I think my install is way cleaner than Don's and easier to do (no offense) but I'm too lazy to put pics up. I had a thread on this and all my pics were deleted.

gmoy25

Try searching mustang tuning's forums. I remember a write up on the SLP line lock. It seem much simplier install from the master cylinder. Keep in mine, you want to have the switch accessible when you realease for the launches.(assuming you are using it for track purposes and not to just waste rubber)
my.02

don_w

I wouldn't recommend a single solenoid after the master cylinder. The diagonal ABS system is a different animal... be safe, use two solenoids.

And I'm not sure how many people are using line lock for launches. At least in my case, it's solely for the burnouts.

don_w

Here are some other threads you can check out:

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...ock-41137.html

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...ock-50606.html

http://www.modularfords.com/forums/2...kit-51516.html

nonsensez9

thanks guys. I have two solenoids and a control box similar to Dustin's, except that it is an ashtray that fits in the cup-holder. I have a couple switches that I've rigged to easily swap in and out until I find what I like best. I'm going to run the wire from the solenoids into the center console and connect to the control box via bullet connector, and plug the box into the power outlet in the center console. I guess all I really need to know is what fittings I'll require, and are there specialized tools to dis/connect brakelines?

Mongoose

Come on DUSTIN you clearly did the best install and did a great write up as well. Repost it for the guys that missed out.

nonsensez9

so now I have all the fittings, tools, etc. to get the job done. I decided maybe I should practise the double flare one or two times before cutting the stock brake-line. good thing. The d-f tool (dumb-f@#%ing tool) stripped on my second practise. And as I bought it out of town the other day while visiting my folks I'll wait to get a replacement at the same store. GRRRR!!!

Mongoose

China crap? Like a Walmart special?

nonsensez9

I paid about $45 for it. I thought it a bit steep for what I was getting, but I guess I'll have to pay a bit more to get the job done.