Front control arms?
#1
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Front control arms?
I'm thinking about replacing my front control arms on my car. I've got a bad ball joint and I still have mental scars from removing the stock joints from them. Biggest P.I.T.A. ever. So instead of dealing with that I might just get aftermarket control arms and press the new joints into those. I've been looking for an excuse to finally replace the last stock component of my suspension (literally), and this may well be it.
Anyone got any recommendations on front control arms?
Anyone got any recommendations on front control arms?
#3
legacy Tms Member
wow- you're on your second set of balljoints? how many miles?
anyone know what balljoint bmr uses? is it a heavier duty piece/is it replaceable easily? I'm just starting to get a slight hum from the front, think wheel bearing time might be soon...wondering also about beefing it up while its down over winter...
anyone know what balljoint bmr uses? is it a heavier duty piece/is it replaceable easily? I'm just starting to get a slight hum from the front, think wheel bearing time might be soon...wondering also about beefing it up while its down over winter...
#4
Steeda has a great set of lower control arms. They have a great reputation and many of their parts are designed/created for racing. You blow through their control arms then you have a driving problem, jk. But they make some great products. They are even backed by Ford Motor Company.
#5
legacy Tms Member
Steeda has a great set of lower control arms. They have a great reputation and many of their parts are designed/created for racing. You blow through their control arms then you have a driving problem, jk. But they make some great products. They are even backed by Ford Motor Company.
#6
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Thread Starter
The stock joints were fine but I replaced them with Steeda X1 ball joints to correct the suspension geometry. They've been in for 3 1/2 years or about 40k miles. I sent a vid to someone and they said don't drive it like it is, so now the BMRs are really appealing.
I don't see front control arms on steedas website, only rear control arms
I don't see front control arms on steedas website, only rear control arms
#7
legacy Tms Member
The stock joints were fine but I replaced them with Steeda X1 ball joints to correct the suspension geometry. They've been in for 3 1/2 years or about 40k miles. I sent a vid to someone and they said don't drive it like it is, so now the BMRs are really appealing.
I don't see front control arms on steedas website, only rear control arms
I don't see front control arms on steedas website, only rear control arms
#8
legacy Tms Member
hmm...in 07 ford upgraded the arms for the gt500:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-f...ms-0511gt.html
fordracing at 219 a pair with heavier stampings, better joints/bushings...not bad
rereading says heavy stampings- one review says they are identical to stock...need to know part numbers for gt/gt500 to see if they are really the same part?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-f...ms-0511gt.html
fordracing at 219 a pair with heavier stampings, better joints/bushings...not bad
rereading says heavy stampings- one review says they are identical to stock...need to know part numbers for gt/gt500 to see if they are really the same part?
Last edited by ford4v429; 8/31/11 at 08:10 PM.
#9
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Thread Starter
Great find, now I've got a decision on my hands: cheap and reliable or better performing but more expensive. Unknown durability too. My concern is bmr makes a set of a arms that account for lowered cars which is good because that's what my steeda ball joints do and I have a bumpsteer kit installed and set for that setup. I don't know what would happen with the bumpsteer kit if I installed the gt500 arms
#10
Shelby GT350 Member
I just recently had the GT500 control arms put on. I too had a bad ball joint and I was going to put the X5 ball joints on and replace the bushings , but since I don't auto cross Gus recommended the GT500 arms instead. They come with upgraded bushings and ball joint and are considerably less in price and install costs ...
#11
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Thread Starter
I just recently had the GT500 control arms put on. I too had a bad ball joint and I was going to put the X5 ball joints on and replace the bushings , but since I don't auto cross Gus recommended the GT500 arms instead. They come with upgraded bushings and ball joint and are considerably less in price and install costs ...
#12
Shelby GT350 Member
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Your bumpsteer kit can be installed on even stock-height cars -- the washers allow the height of the steering arms to be adjusted to whatever you need.
My understanding is the new arms are the same pieces all around as the old GT500-only ones, I don't think there's any actual difference for the 08 up cars.
So only if you have one of the bushings go out do you really need to worry about swapping to a new arm. To reduce unsprung weight the BMR would be nice, though. Wouldn't have to worry about removing or replacing any ball joint that way.
I doubt the price difference is made up for in the labor to have the X5s swapped.
My understanding is the new arms are the same pieces all around as the old GT500-only ones, I don't think there's any actual difference for the 08 up cars.
So only if you have one of the bushings go out do you really need to worry about swapping to a new arm. To reduce unsprung weight the BMR would be nice, though. Wouldn't have to worry about removing or replacing any ball joint that way.
I doubt the price difference is made up for in the labor to have the X5s swapped.
#14
legacy Tms Member
Great find, now I've got a decision on my hands: cheap and reliable or better performing but more expensive. Unknown durability too. My concern is bmr makes a set of a arms that account for lowered cars which is good because that's what my steeda ball joints do and I have a bumpsteer kit installed and set for that setup. I don't know what would happen with the bumpsteer kit if I installed the gt500 arms
#15
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Your bumpsteer kit can be installed on even stock-height cars -- the washers allow the height of the steering arms to be adjusted to whatever you need.
My understanding is the new arms are the same pieces all around as the old GT500-only ones, I don't think there's any actual difference for the 08 up cars.
So only if you have one of the bushings go out do you really need to worry about swapping to a new arm. To reduce unsprung weight the BMR would be nice, though. Wouldn't have to worry about removing or replacing any ball joint that way.
I doubt the price difference is made up for in the labor to have the X5s swapped.
My understanding is the new arms are the same pieces all around as the old GT500-only ones, I don't think there's any actual difference for the 08 up cars.
So only if you have one of the bushings go out do you really need to worry about swapping to a new arm. To reduce unsprung weight the BMR would be nice, though. Wouldn't have to worry about removing or replacing any ball joint that way.
I doubt the price difference is made up for in the labor to have the X5s swapped.
See the BMR is win-win in that way. But the funny thing is that the price isn't that different. I called the shop that I trust and got a price quote. To have the steeda X5 ball joints replaced and the car aligned is $150 in parts plus $400 in labor. Going the BMR route, I install it myself so it will be $450 in parts and $165 to have it aligned. Its only $65 more to go with BMR. it will take longer to get here (5 day shipping) so my car will be out of commission for a week or so, but I'll lose 11 lbs of unsprung weight.
Steeda claims 18" required too, but my 17's always cleared with my X5 ball joints. I'm not sure why they specify 18.
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I think it's cause not all 17s (especially drag style) will fit, so just to be safe.
I was wondering about that cost difference, labor vs parts.
I've not heard about the longevity or quality on the BMR pieces, but it'd be interesting to hear your take if you get them. My gut says you wouldn't need to adjust the bumpsteer kit if the BMR pieces's balljoints are the same height (you might want to call them and ask how they compare to OEM + X5).
I was wondering about that cost difference, labor vs parts.
I've not heard about the longevity or quality on the BMR pieces, but it'd be interesting to hear your take if you get them. My gut says you wouldn't need to adjust the bumpsteer kit if the BMR pieces's balljoints are the same height (you might want to call them and ask how they compare to OEM + X5).
#17
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I decided to get the BMR arms. I've had BMR lower control arms and lower control arm relo brackets on my car for 3 1/2 years and they've been problem free (and enormously effective at stopping axle hop), so I'm going to take a chance on them. They're coming tomorrow evening, so I'll be installing them tomorrow night, and getting the alignment done Thursday. Here goes the last OEM part of my suspension. Period.
I'm guessing you're right about the height being the same, we'll see tomorrow
I'm guessing you're right about the height being the same, we'll see tomorrow
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post up a pic if you can of the OEM and new side by side to show the comparison.
Wondering if you'll notice a difference in the front with that change in unsprung (or partially unsprung) weight.
I saw a study on some website I can't recall about the design and fabrication of the OEM piece, apparently was quite the accomplishment at the time, but still seems to me very crude and much too heavy.
Wondering if you'll notice a difference in the front with that change in unsprung (or partially unsprung) weight.
I saw a study on some website I can't recall about the design and fabrication of the OEM piece, apparently was quite the accomplishment at the time, but still seems to me very crude and much too heavy.
#19
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Sorry about the delay, with the rain we got last week, it really slowed me down getting these installed. Let me just say...I HATE ball joints. Even just getting the stem out of the spindle took hours. really seized in there. But I'm getting off topic.
Here are the pics:
I took measurements with a digital caliper. I can't remember the actual numbers, but they were about 5mm different from eachother. The speed shop I took it to (who do great work, btw) checked the bumpsteer and said it looked good, no need to adjust.
Here are my thoughts so far on the BMR control arms:
Positive:
-No noticeable increase in NVH
-No impact to ride quality
-The front end does actually seem lighter, and it is quicker to change direction, noticeable but not night and day
-The front seems more planted, less squishy in turns
Negative:
-Bushings on passenger side are sqeaking a little bit. Going to have to give them another couple pumps with the grease gun and see if it goes away. I originally gave them 2-3 pumps until I saw grease starting to come out of the flutes in the bushing, but that was before installation
Here are the pics:
I took measurements with a digital caliper. I can't remember the actual numbers, but they were about 5mm different from eachother. The speed shop I took it to (who do great work, btw) checked the bumpsteer and said it looked good, no need to adjust.
Here are my thoughts so far on the BMR control arms:
Positive:
-No noticeable increase in NVH
-No impact to ride quality
-The front end does actually seem lighter, and it is quicker to change direction, noticeable but not night and day
-The front seems more planted, less squishy in turns
Negative:
-Bushings on passenger side are sqeaking a little bit. Going to have to give them another couple pumps with the grease gun and see if it goes away. I originally gave them 2-3 pumps until I saw grease starting to come out of the flutes in the bushing, but that was before installation
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More details, please!!
So those are your OEM arms with the Steeda balljoints, or the OEM? Those the original BMR pieces as well?
Are there Zerks on each location? Looks like maybe on the tip of the white-bushinged piece, what about the red?
So those are your OEM arms with the Steeda balljoints, or the OEM? Those the original BMR pieces as well?
Are there Zerks on each location? Looks like maybe on the tip of the white-bushinged piece, what about the red?