GT Performance Mods2005+ Mustang GT Performance and Technical Information
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Been running Eibach Sportlines with factory struts...need help.
I have had the Sportline springs on for about 8 months now, and I am pretty sure my struts are shot because it rides even harder than before. It actually hurts my back sometimes and my car is starting to creak and make noises when I hit bumps.
Any recomendations as far as replacement struts that will give me a less forgiving ride? If I keep driving like this I will rattle the car apart...including my body. I love the low look the sportlines give, but I want a combination that will make the car ride like a car, not a log wagon.
Thanks!
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Mineral Grey GT MODS:
Flowmaster 40 Series
Pypes off road H-pipe
C&L Cold Air Intake
FRPP 4.10 Gears
Steeda LCA's & UCA Adj. PanHard Bar
Eibach Sportline Springs
20" Shelby Razors
Modular Depot Tuned
And this is common. As the dampers wear, ride degrades it does not improve. You'll likely get other opinions here, but mine is as follows:
Any damper you put on that's better than what you have (even new stock shocks that don't have miles on them) will make the car better. The trick is for how long, and how much better? Costs tend to lead folks to do cheaper replacement shocks that often aren't the best for lowering springs anyway. Lower and stiffer both demand more damping control from the shock. If you don't have it, you're starting out borderline and while better, it's only downhill from there.
I think you have 3 workable choices. Tokico HP's, Tokico D-Specs, Koni's. Tokico HP's are a bit better than stock, but not adjustable to tune the ride in (and softer isn't always better ride, your shocks have softened with age and it's riding worse). The D-specs give you adjustment, and frankly are what I'd consider the bare minimum. They are cheaper than Koni's because they aren't build as well and aren't quite as good overall IMHO (and I have run both personally). The Koni's are by far the best choice as far as I'm concerned. Great quality and control, and a real warranty should you ever need it.
In the end you truly do get what you pay for with dampers. They are not as simple as they appear to be on the outside....
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Sam Strano
Owner of Strano Performance Parts *and* 14 SCCA National Championships *and* a 2011 Mustang
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
At the suggestion of TillmanSpeed, I purchased a set of Steeda ProAction shocks/struts and have been pleased with them. I basically wanted something more durable than the stockers, yet less expensive than the Tokico adjustables. Been installed on my car with Eibach SportLines for almost a year and I've been happy with them.
Are all of the choices you mentioned tuned for the sportline springs??
Either of the adjustable shocks have plenty of range to deal with lowering springs. As for non-adjustables, frankly the Tokico's are a better value as far as I'm concerned than the Steeda Pro-actions.... but I'd not run either myself. I know just how much damping changes can effect a car for the better and wouldn't run a non-adjustable shock that just can't be right for every person, every car, or every spring.
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Sam Strano
Owner of Strano Performance Parts *and* 14 SCCA National Championships *and* a 2011 Mustang
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
im running eibach sportlines aswell for about the same time as you and yes my car creeks/tics a lil bit while like turning into a parking spot or pulling into a driveway...... i would say yes the shocks are done i will upgrade mines soon but the stiff ride doesnt bother me at all
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2008 Mustang GT - Vapor Silver
Show - 20in Bullitts - Nitto NT555 Extreme 255/35/20 - Eibach Sportline Springs - Painted Mirror Caps
Go - Flowmaster Exhaust - Offroad H-Pipe - Hurst Short Shifter - J&M Adjustable Panhard Bar
I checked and my car is acutally sitting on the bumpstops. That tells me that the springs dropped it waaaay too much in the rear, so I doubt that replacing the struts/shocks would even matter?? I think its time to put the stock springs back on. I cant handle the rough ride anymore.
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Mineral Grey GT MODS:
Flowmaster 40 Series
Pypes off road H-pipe
C&L Cold Air Intake
FRPP 4.10 Gears
Steeda LCA's & UCA Adj. PanHard Bar
Eibach Sportline Springs
20" Shelby Razors
Modular Depot Tuned
I checked and my car is acutally sitting on the bumpstops. That tells me that the springs dropped it waaaay too much in the rear, so I doubt that replacing the struts/shocks would even matter?? I think its time to put the stock springs back on. I cant handle the rough ride anymore.
It'll matter... Those springs are short and you've been very near to, if not on the stops all along. I'm sure you'd have noticed any tangible change in ride height, so it hasn't changed much. And the ride has degraded over time, which is the wear on the dampers.
Don't get me wrong, I don't think Sportlines are the best springs out there. I do think they are too low, but the worsening ride quality is from the dampers just being more and more overwhelmed. If you were to put stock springs, or any taller spring on things would improve as the dampers would have a better chance to do their job. But they've never been great, and they will continue to get worse. If you didn't hate the ride when you first put your Sportlines on, good dampers will get it back to that, and a little better yet.
__________________
Sam Strano
Owner of Strano Performance Parts *and* 14 SCCA National Championships *and* a 2011 Mustang
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
Can either of you guys post a pic of your rides? I'd like to see just how slammed the car gets with the Sportlines. My car feels low as it is with the Pro's.
__________________ ~Rob
Whipple HO SC (445rwhp/435rwtq), FRPP springs, Pypes Violators, 18" DD Black Bullitts (285/40/18R, 255/45/18F) w/Nitto NT555s, BRS Pony Spinners, Limo tint, GT500 rear spoiler, Painted black LeMans stripes, Boss 429 hood scoop, GTS fog lamp covers, MRT Rear Louvers, M.A.G. Mirror Covers
the hp's are working well for me, Just under 300 bucks for the set.
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(I quote 1Cobra Life is about choices, decisions, and subsequent consequences. One plays, one pays. One falls or one rises. It is that simple, and there is usually no one else responsible but one's self).
Hers 2010 lexus is250 mine 06 legend lime GT, Shaftmasters alum drive shaft, under drive pulley's, steeda sport springs, Koni strt S/S, jlt cai w bama tunes, hankook v12's 255/35 275/35/20" pinnacale wheels,bbk headers w high flow bbk catted x pipe cia3k oil changetires
You need to cut the bump stops. Spend the extra and get adjustable. I have Steeda comp springs and D-Specs. If I had to do over, I'd go coil-over. It would have cost me $800 more, but think of the possibilities...
You need to cut the bump stops. Spend the extra and get adjustable. I have Steeda comp springs and D-Specs. If I had to do over, I'd go coil-over. It would have cost me $800 more, but think of the possibilities...
I have to respectfully disagree. While cutting the stops makes for a bit more travel before you touch them, when you do the spike in wheel rate is even more abrupt. The bumpstops are not solid and gain rate as you compress them (notice the accordion type shape). Cutting them takes away a lot of the rising rate, and effectively leaves you with still little travel.
A longer softer stop is less intrusive than a shorter, more abrupt bumpstop which is why so many cars are now using them as rising rate supplemental springs vs. a true bump*stop*.
As for the coil-overs, I'm not sure what you are looking to gain from them vs. what you have. There is no magic on a coil-over. Low is still low. Sure you can set the height exactly where you want it, but if you set it up @ height like a given set of springs you haven't done anything helpful for the travel or geometry vs. a normal set of springs. And that doesn't even get into the various types of dampers associated with coil-overs or the spring rates they might be using.
__________________
Sam Strano
Owner of Strano Performance Parts *and* 14 SCCA National Championships *and* a 2011 Mustang
814-849-3450 www.stranoparts.com
I have to respectfully disagree. While cutting the stops makes for a bit more travel before you touch them, when you do the spike in wheel rate is even more abrupt. The bumpstops are not solid and gain rate as you compress them (notice the accordion type shape). Cutting them takes away a lot of the rising rate, and effectively leaves you with still little travel.
A longer softer stop is less intrusive than a shorter, more abrupt bumpstop which is why so many cars are now using them as rising rate supplemental springs vs. a true bump*stop*.
As for the coil-overs, I'm not sure what you are looking to gain from them vs. what you have. There is no magic on a coil-over. Low is still low. Sure you can set the height exactly where you want it, but if you set it up @ height like a given set of springs you haven't done anything helpful for the travel or geometry vs. a normal set of springs. And that doesn't even get into the various types of dampers associated with coil-overs or the spring rates they might be using.
Everyone would love a new set of progressive stops for a spring that drops the rear 2. Im not aware of any. I even remember Roush and Saleen stating you need to cut the stops, right where the accordion part starts, ½ inch off the top, not too much. The Sportline is an extreme lowering spring that reduces suspension travel by 2, the stock stops were not meant for that spring. Im not saying its a good thing to cut them, but if you want the drop you need to cut.
I would have liked coil-overs for corner weighting, not dropping the car. Just as well, I would have had to go out and by a set of scales.
Can either of you guys post a pic of your rides? I'd like to see just how slammed the car gets with the Sportlines. My car feels low as it is with the Pro's.