The 'ask any detailing question' thread
#401
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I also have SUPER hard water at home. It's ridiculous, I literally couldn't see out of my side mirror with my Focus after it was hit was the sprinklers a few days in a row in 90* weather. I spent HOURS polishing just my windows...I've looked at filters and water treatment, but it is pretty expensive. My primary concern isn't so much with the wash water (I tend not to get many water spots after a wash), but protection from rain and sprinkler water. I managed to get the paint all polished and sealed with Klasse sealant/glaze before the sprinklers are turned on...but what about the windows? I see the klasse is OK for glass, but is there a better product? Since I already have the klasse, will it do? I'm going to polish them all up here pretty soon and get something on them so I don't have to worry with etching. Also, I put two coats of the klasse on the paint about a week ago. I've been thinking about another 1-2 coats on to see how it looks. Can I just quick detail everything and go about with the klasse again? Any need to do any other prep before hand? And does anyone put wax on top of the sealant? I was hoping for a darker hue to the "shine", something that carnuba wax has got me in the past. If I go that route, how long between applying the sealant and the wax? Oh, and how about the klasse on the the wheels?
I will add a small review this weekend about griots glass sealant
#402
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Thanks. When you state that I'm looking at it wrong, you mean my approach to polishing more heavily scratched areas of the car vs the less scratched areas? I think what you're offering is that I need to apply the same exact application consistently across the entire vehicle, one panel at a time. Do you agree with my steps and product(-Polish using Porter Cable 7424->1 pass with Meguiar's 205, then finish it off with 3M Ultrafine )? Your comments about 'Not easy to do, and now you're going to tackle this with little experience'.. makes me a bit paranoid, especially since the reason I've never polished is because I hate the idea of applying an abrasive to my car's paint.. I certainly don't want to screw this up.. I think I'm going to practice on another vehicle 1st and watch me a lot of Junkman. thanks, Erik
If you got a DA (dual action) polisher it would make a huge difference. Theyre very user friendly and Meguiars even makes an attachment to ise with a drill (wprks great) but a dedicated DA polisher like a Porter Cable or Rupes will be great.
#403
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Join Date: May 16, 2011
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Thanks.
When you state that I'm looking at it wrong, you mean my approach to polishing more heavily scratched areas of the car vs the less scratched areas? I think what you're offering is that I need to apply the same exact application consistently across the entire vehicle, one panel at a time. Do you agree with my steps and product(-Polish using Porter Cable 7424->1 pass with Meguiar's 205, then finish it off with 3M Ultrafine )?
Your comments about 'Not easy to do, and now you're going to tackle this with little experience'.. makes me a bit paranoid, especially since the reason I've never polished is because I hate the idea of applying an abrasive to my car's paint.. I certainly don't want to screw this up.. I think I'm going to practice on another vehicle 1st and watch me a lot of Junkman.
thanks,
Erik
When you state that I'm looking at it wrong, you mean my approach to polishing more heavily scratched areas of the car vs the less scratched areas? I think what you're offering is that I need to apply the same exact application consistently across the entire vehicle, one panel at a time. Do you agree with my steps and product(-Polish using Porter Cable 7424->1 pass with Meguiar's 205, then finish it off with 3M Ultrafine )?
Your comments about 'Not easy to do, and now you're going to tackle this with little experience'.. makes me a bit paranoid, especially since the reason I've never polished is because I hate the idea of applying an abrasive to my car's paint.. I certainly don't want to screw this up.. I think I'm going to practice on another vehicle 1st and watch me a lot of Junkman.
thanks,
Erik
I don't think you're going to damage your vehicle. While it is possible to do so with a DA, it is highly unlikely to the point I'd recommend it to anyone. The first panel or two will be a little nerve wrecking only because it's your first time. Keep medium pressure and arm speed and concentrate on keeping a 50% overlap in your movements and I think you'll be fine. By the time you're a few panels in, you'll be rocking.
#405
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However i e used rain-x treatment over klasse with great results. Just helps it last longer and you can dry your glass with a desk fan lol
(Yes i tried)
#406
Cobra R Member
Yeah, I've never liked wax on glass, that would be paint only.
Is the Meguiars gold class carnuba reasonably good? Pretty sure I still have a tub of that somewhere...would prefer not having to buy more stuff.
Is the Meguiars gold class carnuba reasonably good? Pretty sure I still have a tub of that somewhere...would prefer not having to buy more stuff.
#407
Shelby GT350 Member
#408
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Durability could be better but as for gloss and water sheeting/beading abilities its pretty good. There are pkenty pther products put there that do wonders though. For around the same proce you can get a tin pf Collinite 915. Pop the top with a screwdriver, rub your pad in a bit (stuffs pretty dense, will last a loong time) and go to town. Only need thin coats as this stuff can get a lil harder to buff out if too much is used. Its basically a sealant but in wax form. Will bead and sheet water for (in my experience) around 6 months minimum through the harshest stuff. Really nice shine and gloss and its a classic looking package as well. I recommend it highly
#409
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Join Date: May 16, 2011
Location: SE Michigan
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Had to restock on a few things. Super excited to have ordered a couple of things I plan on using on my car once I get her out of storage though. A couple of nice wash mitts and dedicated colored buckets strictly for my baby.
#410
Legacy TMS Member
#411
Bullitt Member
Join Date: September 19, 2009
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At first I thought that was one rethickulously expensive mitt, until I saw that there were 85 items in the cart! lol
#412
Cobra R Member
I actually found some Griot's Best of Show wax in the cupboard...I think I'll use that over the Klasse.
I also polished my windows yesterday, got rid of 90% of the gross water stains/etches.
That being said, I still find it **** near impossible to get these windows 100% clean. I don't mean from water spots, but when I clean them (window cleaner sans ammonia + microfiber) I'm always left with smudges and lint. I even get lint with my good MF towels. It feels like someone sprayed a bunch of oil on all the windows and some of it's just being smeared around.
Any thoughts on that?
I also polished my windows yesterday, got rid of 90% of the gross water stains/etches.
That being said, I still find it **** near impossible to get these windows 100% clean. I don't mean from water spots, but when I clean them (window cleaner sans ammonia + microfiber) I'm always left with smudges and lint. I even get lint with my good MF towels. It feels like someone sprayed a bunch of oil on all the windows and some of it's just being smeared around.
Any thoughts on that?
#413
I actually found some Griot's Best of Show wax in the cupboard...I think I'll use that over the Klasse.
I also polished my windows yesterday, got rid of 90% of the gross water stains/etches.
That being said, I still find it **** near impossible to get these windows 100% clean. I don't mean from water spots, but when I clean them (window cleaner sans ammonia + microfiber) I'm always left with smudges and lint. I even get lint with my good MF towels. It feels like someone sprayed a bunch of oil on all the windows and some of it's just being smeared around.
Any thoughts on that?
I also polished my windows yesterday, got rid of 90% of the gross water stains/etches.
That being said, I still find it **** near impossible to get these windows 100% clean. I don't mean from water spots, but when I clean them (window cleaner sans ammonia + microfiber) I'm always left with smudges and lint. I even get lint with my good MF towels. It feels like someone sprayed a bunch of oil on all the windows and some of it's just being smeared around.
Any thoughts on that?
Last edited by phiggs54; 4/24/14 at 09:57 AM.
#414
#415
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You guys are killing me.
Cleaning glass with normal good microfiber towels? Come on man. You can't do that: theyll leave trace amounts of lint. You have to use glass-specific towels. Made with a super tight low nap that doesn't lint.
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...02/16-x-12-S1/
Another alternative I've used with great results are surgical towels "huck" towels that have a good bite on glass and won't lint.
Cleaning glass with normal good microfiber towels? Come on man. You can't do that: theyll leave trace amounts of lint. You have to use glass-specific towels. Made with a super tight low nap that doesn't lint.
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...02/16-x-12-S1/
Another alternative I've used with great results are surgical towels "huck" towels that have a good bite on glass and won't lint.
#416
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Yea; more pads (5.5inch for the Rupes 21 with the Rupes 17 backing plate and a few 3 inch), couple buckets, new wheel face brush, an extra bottle of Born to be Mild, 20 yellow foam applicators, tarminator cans, couple TUF shine brushes for tire cleaning, 6 grit guards (to sell to clients - people always need them), and a few more items. One of my clients also piggybacked on my order, so about $120 worth is his. Also take into account I get a good discount from DI, so the total isn't correct but it still isn't cheap.
#417
Cobra R Member
I'm curious, are small diameter orbitals worth the money? I use a 6" currently. The issue I find is that using it on some panels (namely the trunk lid which has a spoiler, and the bumpers) is difficult as there's just too much stuff in the way, or the panels are too small. Also, the 6" is useless on the side mirrors or quarter windows.
I try and tape everything off pretty well which mitigates some of the issues...but will a smaller polisher make life easier and allow for more polishing to be done with the machine versus by hand?
I hate doing it by hand, I never get it done as well as the machine.
I try and tape everything off pretty well which mitigates some of the issues...but will a smaller polisher make life easier and allow for more polishing to be done with the machine versus by hand?
I hate doing it by hand, I never get it done as well as the machine.
#418
Mach 1 Member
Meg's Gold Class is okay, but it does not have a whole lot of durability. My go to Meg's produc for LSP is #21 Synthetic Sealant. After a day, it can be topped with a carnauba to give the car a warmer look.
Last edited by DaGonz; 4/24/14 at 08:56 PM.
#419
Mach 1 Member
I clean windows in the garage when I am detailing, but I do check it in direct sunlight. One thing I do is to clean the inside with one motion, the outside with another, i.e., inside I clean with a horizontal movement, outside I will do a vertical or vice versa. When you pull the car out into the sun, if you see streaking, you will know what side of the glass needs to be redone. Having dedicated glass cleaning microfibers is a must!
Last edited by DaGonz; 4/24/14 at 02:31 PM.
#420
Windows are a pain...
I clean windows in the garage when I am detailing, but I do check it in direct sunlight. One thing I do is to clean the inside with one motion, the outside with another, i.e., inside I clean with a horizontal movement, outside I will do a vertical or vice versa. When you pull the car out into the sun, if you see streaking, you will know what side of the glass needs to be redone. Having dedicated glass cleaning microfibers is a must!