What Jack Points Do You Use?
9/29/08, 10:13 PM
#1
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What Jack Points Do You Use?
Please mark on the picture. On most cars I'll lift from the front center and put stands on the seam. I don't like the idea of lifting from the rear end case.
The manual seems to show an older model so I thought these pictures would be beneficial.
The manual seems to show an older model so I thought these pictures would be beneficial.
9/30/08, 05:17 AM
#2
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what year is this car shown? from the black plastic around the bottom of the car on the side and back it looks like one of the new 2010's. the underside of the front fascia looks different than the current model. most of you who have looked under the car will know what i am talking about. look around the exhaust also.
9/30/08, 05:53 AM
#4
Probably not the right spot but I have been jacking the front end up on mine for almost 4 years now from the K-member. That way I can place a stand on each side and then move the jack around to the back. I know they say never to do it but I lift the back by putting the jack under the differential. I have always done that with RWD cars.
9/30/08, 07:44 PM
#6
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I'm not sure if this pic is any better (FR500), but I'd be interested in an answer to the same question.....especially for the rear of the car. The spots marked in red is where I place the front jack stands / lift the car, and assumed the rear stands would go on the axle (blue), but wasn't sure where to jack from, since I always hear not to do it from the pumpkin for stability/cover related reasons. Are the green or yellow spots viable? ...not sure if I'll even be able to get the jack under there without hitting the body side rails, as I have to admit, I haven't had the chance to really get under the S197 yet and never needed to lift the rear of my SN95.
10/1/08, 04:53 AM
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10/1/08, 08:11 PM
#9
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Those are great undercar photos by randy_tho, and they look identical to the underside of my 2008 Mustang. I've spent hours reading thru various posts from different forums regarding the jack and stand locations, but nobody has been using an accurate undercar illustration, until now. Also, the diagrams used in the 2007 and 2008 Ford Shop Manuals do not look like the underside of my car, and that has caused confusion. Anyway, those randy_tho illustrations will make it easy for others to describe where the jack and stand points are, and that will help me learn what points to use on my car. Thanks!
10/1/08, 11:00 PM
#10
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At the moment I'm trying to find the best route for rotating the tires. Need to get one side up at a time. Will be using two jacks. When compared to the shop manual, there is not a clear area with plenty of clearance.
10/1/08, 11:45 PM
#11
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I always place stands on each corner of the front frame rails, and corners of the rear axle. IMHO this would appear to be the safest points to place jack stands.
10/4/08, 06:28 PM
#13
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I ended up putting a 2x4x8 under the frame rail on a NAPA low profile jack. Jacking up and putting a jack stand with a wood block in the pinch weld point. That was in the front. In the back I took a Craftsman jack and put a wood block under the pinch weld point and lifted the rear. Then put a stand under the axle tube.
The wood blocks were approximately 2x2x2, just enough to fit centered on the pinch weld joint. They need to be placed so that the grain is perpendicular to the pinch weld ridge. Otherwise they will split.
This may not be the best tactic but seems to be the safest on the car and in general. It would probably be better to have some kind of dense rubber instead of wood blocks though. This was for rotating the tires one side at a time. With enough stands you should be able to get the whole car up to work on the suspension. For safety I would probably stick to one side at a time.
The pinch weld area is recessed into the rocker panel so my jack stands or jack would not fit. I had to use the wood blocks to prevent contact with the plastic body panel. There must be some kind of rubber/steel adapter to put on the jack.
Also I think the holes in the frame rail may be for a rubber pad to fit into it. I have seen this kind of thing on the newer Vettes.
The wood blocks were approximately 2x2x2, just enough to fit centered on the pinch weld joint. They need to be placed so that the grain is perpendicular to the pinch weld ridge. Otherwise they will split.
This may not be the best tactic but seems to be the safest on the car and in general. It would probably be better to have some kind of dense rubber instead of wood blocks though. This was for rotating the tires one side at a time. With enough stands you should be able to get the whole car up to work on the suspension. For safety I would probably stick to one side at a time.
The pinch weld area is recessed into the rocker panel so my jack stands or jack would not fit. I had to use the wood blocks to prevent contact with the plastic body panel. There must be some kind of rubber/steel adapter to put on the jack.
Also I think the holes in the frame rail may be for a rubber pad to fit into it. I have seen this kind of thing on the newer Vettes.
Last edited by randy_tho; 10/4/08 at 06:50 PM.
10/6/08, 09:16 PM
#15
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From what I understand of the above Ford tech documents, one of them describes the lifting procedure. The one I have titled jacking1 is actually lifting. So it sounds like if you can clear the rockers, then the pinch weld is the way to go.
I think some places still lift from the frame rails which is where I put the low profile jack. I would distribute the pressure with a board still though. I read this from some other posts.
I think some places still lift from the frame rails which is where I put the low profile jack. I would distribute the pressure with a board still though. I read this from some other posts.
Last edited by randy_tho; 10/6/08 at 09:18 PM.
10/7/08, 05:38 AM
#16
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Using a 4-point lift I use the spots marked with blue arrows, using just a jack I use the red. If I'm putting the car up on jackstands using a floor jack I lift by the blue points and then put the jack stands under the red. Its just more stable with the stands as close to the outside corners of the car as possible (staying in between the wheels). You can lift by the axle tubes, but I don't recommend it because its easy for the jack to slip off the round surface. Jack stands are OK there. And as I've paid dearly for it, I'll say it again like I have on at least 2 other threads on this subject: DON'T LIFT BY THE DIFF. You're asking for trouble. Its really easy for the jack to slip off (it did for me) the smooth surface and the irregular shape means its hard to get the jack lined up good. and some claim the stress can crack or warp the casing.
10/7/08, 01:23 PM
#17
I can't count the number of times I've jacked up the rear using the pumpkin. Of course, I always make sure ground is level and always chock the front wheel.
10/7/08, 04:49 PM
#18
Legacy TMS Member
Yeah I did too. Always do even if I'm just lifing 1 corner. Still slipped off. I guess you can't always be sure when the wheels on your floor jack are going to roll or not, mine didn't, and the jack pulled itself out from under the car
10/7/08, 04:52 PM
#19
That's crazy! Glad you weren't crushed.
Like I mention in all my write-ups, always support the vehicle with jack stands and NEVER rely solely on the hydraulic jack.
Like I mention in all my write-ups, always support the vehicle with jack stands and NEVER rely solely on the hydraulic jack.
10/7/08, 07:24 PM
#20
Mach 1 Member
"Pumpkin Lift Power"
Got to agree with TacoBill on this! We alway jack the rear end up, using the pumpkin as the lift point. But also place an oak wood block (2"X4"X4") flat between the jackpad and the pumpkin. The wood always crushes a little in the pad's teeth and against the pumpkin. This lift is not going anywhere. Assuming that you are doing the lift on a perfectly flat concrete shop floor and have also blocked the front tires both front and rear. don't really know about any cracking of the casting? Have been lifting them this way for over thirty years now!! Haven't lost one yet. Believe that Ford might say not to use the pumpkin, to protect themselves from any possible legal problems? Also always use the oak wood pieces between the jack stands and the body connect points too. 
CalStang
CalStang