1965 Brake help needed
#1
Our 1965 Mustang coupe needs a new master cylinder. It has the original single-reservoir type now. After some research it looks like for safety sake, we should replace it with the double reservoir type. Can anyone give advice on the complexity and cost this would entail? Can someone like me with minimal mechanic experience and basic tools do the job?
Also, the cap is not a screw on type. It's more like the double-reservoir's cap with the flip fastener across the top. Was this a variation used in 1965? Or is this a replacement from another model?
Thanks!
Also, the cap is not a screw on type. It's more like the double-reservoir's cap with the flip fastener across the top. Was this a variation used in 1965? Or is this a replacement from another model?
Thanks!
#2
I would definitely go with a double reservoir for safety. Unfortunately replacing a single with a double entails a lot of other changes. You have to find a compatible combination valve and add a proportioning valve. Then you have to bend new brake lines to fit your setup. I did the Granada front disc brake conversion, went to a dual reservoir and used the Granada proportioning valve. The system works pretty well. The changeover is messy also, have to drain the entire hydraulic system. I did it, but had to buy a tubing bender and a pressurized brake bleeding system.
My '65 had the flip lid also, and it looks original. Maybe it was on California built cars. Really not sure if this is a variation or not.
Hope this helps, MikeR
My '65 had the flip lid also, and it looks original. Maybe it was on California built cars. Really not sure if this is a variation or not.
Hope this helps, MikeR
#3
You might want to consider the kit available from SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corp). They offer a dual master kit, and a booster so you can also add power brakes. This kit does not require any cutting, drilling, or welding, you even use the original pedal assembly under the dash.
If you don't already have them you can add disc brakes at the same time or upgrade to them later.
If you don't already have them you can add disc brakes at the same time or upgrade to them later.
#4
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If you want to do them yourself, and have the basic tools and a LOT of patience, I recommend you get buy a conversion kit from one of the reputable suppliers (like SSBC as 66HertzClone mentions). But remember the brake is the most critical part of the car - if they don't stop the car, something else has to. Keep the parts clean, and bleed, bleed, bleed.
#5
Thanks for the replies, but OMG! Stainless Steel Brake Corp's cheapest kit is more than $1,500! Ouch! We just can't sink that much money into this car right now. Anyone got a less expensive fix for this problem?
thanks
thanks
#6
The SSBC kit is pricey and pretty much turn key. You can also get a '74 Maverick NON power disc/drum master from almost any auto parts store, along with the proportioning valve. I don't recall anywhere in the previous posts where you indicated whether or not you currently have disc brakes. I think we're all assuming you currently have drums, based on the master cylinder description. If that's the case, I think you can get a later dual bowl master cylinder from a Maverick or Mustang for a drum/drum car and be done with it. No prop valve will be needed.
#7
They are drums all around. The Maverick option sounds much less pricey. Will that also entail new brake lines?
Thanks again
Thanks again
Originally posted by gjz30075@May 11, 2005, 9:24 AM
The SSBC kit is pricey and pretty much turn key. You can also get a '74 Maverick NON power disc/drum master from almost any auto parts store, along with the proportioning valve. I don't recall anywhere in the previous posts where you indicated whether or not you currently have disc brakes. I think we're all assuming you currently have drums, based on the master cylinder description. If that's the case, I think you can get a later dual bowl master cylinder from a Maverick or Mustang for a drum/drum car and be done with it. No prop valve will be needed.
The SSBC kit is pricey and pretty much turn key. You can also get a '74 Maverick NON power disc/drum master from almost any auto parts store, along with the proportioning valve. I don't recall anywhere in the previous posts where you indicated whether or not you currently have disc brakes. I think we're all assuming you currently have drums, based on the master cylinder description. If that's the case, I think you can get a later dual bowl master cylinder from a Maverick or Mustang for a drum/drum car and be done with it. No prop valve will be needed.
#8
If your master has two lines coming out, then no new lines will be needed. If not, you'll have to make another line to go to whatever junction block you have that splits the circuit between front and back.
#9
Got my double from Cobra Automotive--the sell racing stuff for Cobras (duh) and it came with the MC and the two lines--PREBENT--that you need to put it to a valve. Since I have a GT, I already had one of these, but you can get them most anywhere-from the reputable dealers. (You'll need the part that splits the pressure from one line to two for the front--the name escapes me right now.)
Had to get an adjustable pushrod for the MC. Bench bled that monster, dropped it in and off we went, after a brake bleed, of course. The hardest part we had was finding a reducer for the lines that was shallow enough not to bottom out before it got a good seal.
Oh yeah, we replaced the DOT3 with DOT5 as we are high humidity here--and the silicon keeps the rubber parts happy, too.
It isn't hard, it is just messy and requires some patience. Try Cobra--if memory serves, my MC was under 80, with the pre-bent lines. This was a few years ago.
Once my son was born, I wasn't using the "Suicide Single" MC anymore. Brakes are too important.
YMMV
--P
Had to get an adjustable pushrod for the MC. Bench bled that monster, dropped it in and off we went, after a brake bleed, of course. The hardest part we had was finding a reducer for the lines that was shallow enough not to bottom out before it got a good seal.
Oh yeah, we replaced the DOT3 with DOT5 as we are high humidity here--and the silicon keeps the rubber parts happy, too.
It isn't hard, it is just messy and requires some patience. Try Cobra--if memory serves, my MC was under 80, with the pre-bent lines. This was a few years ago.
Once my son was born, I wasn't using the "Suicide Single" MC anymore. Brakes are too important.
YMMV
--P
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